I have a small amount of coolant leaking into my gearbox through my impeller shaft seals, i've tried replacing the seals twice now and am not getting anywhere. Would a drop of Rad Weld be worth a shot? Would Rad Wed even work as both sides of the leak are wet (coolant & gearbox oil) Might it be worth draining the gearbox oil while applying Rad Weld?

It seems Radweld needs to get hot and then come into contact with cool air (via the leak) in order to set. So i'd have to have the engine running with no gearbox oil in the bike, is this safe (as long as i stay in neutral?)

Edited March 6, 201016 yr by SawTooth

Sorry, but you have no chance of sealing a rotating shaft with Rad weld.

If you have replaced the seal correctly and you still have a leak then the obvious problem is that the water pump shaft is scored. You can often feel this by running your thumb nail along the shaft.

A replacement shaft is not that expensive (about

Can i run my engine (in neutral) without any gearbox oil? I have a tiny leak between the coolant system and te gearbox (suspected impeller shaft seal), have tried to fix it twice now but with no luck. Am thinking of adding a drop of Radweld to the coolant system but the coolant needs to be hot and the leak needs to be to air (and not gearbox oil) in order for the Radweld to set. This means no gearbox oil and engine running, can i do this?

Sorry, but you have no chance of sealing a rotating shaft with Rad weld.

If you have replaced the seal correctly and you still have a leak then the obvious problem is that the water pump shaft is scored. You can often feel this by running your thumb nail along the shaft.

A replacement shaft is not that expensive (about

Edited March 6, 201016 yr by SawTooth

Price up a new engine then do the maths.

Sounds like your casing is porous, been well known problem on Beta's. Something to do with the anti-freeze used or normal tap water being used instead of proper de-ionised water.

Couple of mates had the same problem, parts cost about

Edited March 6, 201016 yr by John.B

I wouldn't use radweld, its a temporary bodge at best and leaves your water system gunked up.

Price up a new engine then do the maths.

Sounds like your casing is porous, been well known problem on Beta's. Something to do with the anti-freeze used or normal tap water being used instead of proper de-ionised water.

Couple of mates had the same problem, parts cost about

Edited March 6, 201016 yr by SawTooth

I just remembered, i already have a new casing, its only been on on there for 6 or so hrs riding and has always had de-ionised water and repsol coolant on it. Along with a new impeller shaft and seals.