April 8, 201016 yr Having had the rear brake seize on me during my last comp I have stripped the rear caliper put new seals, pots and pads in but am still not getting enough pressure to lock the rear if the bike is on a fast tickover in 1st (it will lock if rotated by hand. Am fairly happy that its well bled (fluid is running clear) but have decided to also replaced the master cylinder rubbers. This is my first attempt at this job so any advice would be appreciated. The pedal and pedal link arm were also pretty ropey so I have planned to replace these as well. I would also be interested to know what a "good" pedal looks and feels like following a full refurb (eg does it lock the rear wheel if the bike is on a centre stand running on tickover in 2nd)..... Have worked on brakes quite a bit now but have never had a bike from new so my expectations have always been based on someone else's maintainence!
April 8, 201016 yr Gday, search around in the Beta forum, there is a huge amount of stuff on the rear brake. Good Luck! Stork
April 10, 201016 yr Author Hi Stork, cheers for that advice. Have had a good look and their are some good tips that have helped. Have replaced the master cyl seal today and also "deglazed" using the running it with the brake on in top and then cool the disc down a few times. The certainly helped. Going back to my original point though, I am still struggling for a point of reference of what a "good" rear brake feels like? eg if im running on a centre stand should I be able to stall the engine in first at a fast tickover? How much is "good" pedal movement? Maybe I'm shooting for the moon and their are to many variables to answer these. I suppose Im trying to understand if I have got the set up as near to perfect as possible?
April 10, 201016 yr Gday, the pedal should feel quite firm and move a small amount before stopping but not feel "rock solid". I think you should be able to stall the bike easily using the rear brake at a fast idle. Pedal movement can vary according to individual setup but all should have a small amount of free travel before the rod contacts the master cylinder, you should see around 1 inch max. travel . I guess the best way to tell is by comparison with another bike that has a good rear brake. They all feel somewhat similar. The Betas can be a real pain to get a rear brake bled, the only way I could ever do this is by removing the whole lot and bleeding on the bench, then refitting. Cheers, Stork
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