going to be taking off stator and sending it off to get rewound,is it a straight forward job too take off and refit,i have got a flywheel puller to take off,but was wondering if it has to be set when refitting and if so how and what are clearance settings if any...

going to be taking off stator and sending it off to get rewound,is it a straight forward job too take off and refit,i have got a flywheel puller to take off,but was wondering if it has to be set when refitting and if so how and what are clearance settings if any...

The Pro stator is a fixed item and non adjustable. When re-fitting make sure the places where the stator plate contacts the engine cases are clean (a little sandpaper works well) and I like to put a dab of dielectric tuneup grease (Silicone grease) on the contact points to ward off corrosion. The ignition timing does not involve stator plate position but is a function of crank angle and magnetic pickup sensor location.

Jon

The Pro stator is a fixed item and non adjustable. When re-fitting make sure the places where the stator plate contacts the engine cases are clean (a little sandpaper works well) and I like to put a dab of dielectric tuneup grease (Silicone grease) on the contact points to ward off corrosion. The ignition timing does not involve stator plate position but is a function of crank angle and magnetic pickup sensor location.

Jon

thanks for that should be easy enough to do then...and hopefully start abit easier when hot...

Keep us posted with this one GG if you wouldn't mind, mine has started showing similar syptoms today. It might just be a blocked pilot jet, but you never know.....

What are the symptons of a faulty stator, mine has latlely started to now and again decide it wont want to start too easily when hot, might take up too anywhere between 10-15 kicks to get going again.

Keep us posted with this one GG if you wouldn't mind, mine has started showing similar syptoms today. It might just be a blocked pilot jet, but you never know.....

funnily enough it started fine all weekend,now gonna wait until ive been out again to see if it reverts back to being a bugger,i am wondering if water is getting into stator when i,m washing bike,never washed it last week and went fine,every other time its been powerwashed before being put away,but havent a clue,would be good if its fixed itself....

Ha ha! If only life was that kind. I never power wash mine, just use a hose. Mine started fine from cold, was clearly not right once it had warmed up and then was hard to get going after 15-20 minute break.

funnily enough it started fine all weekend,now gonna wait until ive been out again to see if it reverts back to being a bugger,i am wondering if water is getting into stator when i,m washing bike,never washed it last week and went fine,every other time its been powerwashed before being put away,but havent a clue,would be good if its fixed itself....

One of the things I've done to keep water from being trapped in the stator area is to vent the sidecase on all my bikes since the 70's. This really helps in a wet Trial as the sidecase is a closed container of gas (air in this case) and if cooled rapidly (like in a creek) a vacuum will form and suck water into the case in any area where the gasket/seal is compromised. A cut down Schrader fitting can be used or any small fitting that a hose can be attached to. The hose is then run up under the fuel tank and into a small coil. I check my stator once in a while and spray some WD-40 on the surfaces just to cut any corrosion possibilities. It's been clean and dry for 8 years now.

This is my 02' Pro vent, which is really needed as the 02' engine is non-anodized Magnesium and really prone to corrosion if not cared for.

Jon

thats a good idea,i have sealed up casing with silicon,so will need to vent it i suppose to let it breath..