Hi

I've got a very small weep of oil coming from around the nut on the rear cylinder head bolt with the triangular mounting plate.

Please can you tell me the correct torque of the head bolts.

Also, I've ordered a swingarm bush linkage kit, can this be a pig of a job to do?

Many thanks in advance

Gordie

Hi

I've got a very small weep of oil coming from around the nut on the rear cylinder head bolt with the triangular mounting plate.

Please can you tell me the correct torque of the head bolts.

Also, I've ordered a swingarm bush linkage kit, can this be a pig of a job to do?

Many thanks in advance

Gordie

Gordie,

Cylinder nut- 18 to 20 ft lbs 25 to 27 Nm

The swingarm bushings are not difficult, just time consuming. Don't forget the bearings up in the underside of the

front of the swingarm, they are often overlooked.

Jon

Jon,

Thanks for taking the time to reply.

Should the head bolts be torqued up when the engine is hot or cold?

I have ordered a full bush/bearing set so hopefully the upper front bearings are in the kit.

Gordie

Jon,

Thanks for taking the time to reply.

Should the head bolts be torqued up when the engine is hot or cold?

I have ordered a full bush/bearing set so hopefully the upper front bearings are in the kit.

Gordie

All torque reading are cold. You might back the nuts off one at a time and apply a little anti-seize to the stud

to get a more accurate reading. Most of the GG pro cylinder nuts have a toothed surface to act as a lockwasher

type affair so I'd use the upper range of the torque spec. and, of course, do them in thirds (1/3rd, 2/3rds, then

full torque limit) and crisscross as you tighten the nuts to give a good, even surface pressure to the gasket.

The bearings in the swingarm are a little tricky to work with so let us know when you do them and we can give you some pointers.

Cheers.

Jon

I just finished doing the bearing in my linkage, wasn't too bad but you have to pull most of the rear apart to do it. Got the dog bones separated out the pressed out the old, put in a flush seal on one side and drove the bearing up against that, then put in the other seal. Bearings under the swingarm were a PITA mainly because I decided I was too lazy to pull the swing to do it. Ended up making a special drift to hold all the needles in place and drive the bearings in at the same time. Remember the shouldered bush at this location ends up close to flush, you drive the bearings and seals in deeper than you might think. Really makes the rear seem more alive and I got some dirt out of the nooks and crannies that made me feel much better about what's going on down there....