OK, Montesa guys.

My front end is a little cobbled together, but I just got this thing going for the first time in MANY years, and I'm psyched to ride.

Needless to say, the front brake will never be like the Sherco I sold last year, but what can I really expect from the front brake?

Right now it seems like a joke.

Won't lock at any speed except maybe on ice.

I've even got it adjusted so it drags a bit just so I can be sure all my cable/lever motion is doing something.

Any tricks to adjusting/tweaking these?

Should the backing plate float a little so it centers?

I think I see why folks put a compression release on these things!

Edited August 14, 201016 yr by charliechitlins

The brakes are not strong point on these bikes but a little work can improove things.

I take it new shoes are fitted, you need to make the shoes fit the drum as the drums wear well worth the effort but a pain to do. Also before the wheel spindle is fully tightened apply the front brake to centre the shoes in the drum.

Just fitted new shoes to my sons cota 200 and the brakes are not anywhere as good as the old ones as things need to bed in even after some initial setting up.

I think Jimbo is correct about getting the shoes bedded in and centered. I have a 72 247 and a 74 and they both have weak front brakes. You may possibly get a little better feel by going to a heavier front brake cable to reduce the stretch factor of the stock one. Also I noticed that there is a difference in what kind of lever/perch assembly I am using as some have a better feel and leverage than others. I like the Amal levers personally and they are spendy but really work nice and smooth.

Thanks, guys.

I'm using an Amal lever.

I may try some different cable. I've done this on old Harleys...something with a longitudinal core that stretches less.

I notice, though, that when I pull the lever, the arm on the backing plate does keep moving...just not too much more braking occurs.

I have a buddy who can arc the shoes and match them to the drum.

I'll give that a shot.

Thanks, guys.

I'm using an Amal lever.

I may try some different cable. I've done this on old Harleys...something with a longitudinal core that stretches less.

I notice, though, that when I pull the lever, the arm on the backing plate does keep moving...just not too much more braking occurs.

I have a buddy who can arc the shoes and match them to the drum.

I'll give that a shot.

One thing that helps is to shim the pivot point. Since the arm only expands the shoes on one end, the opposite end (pivot point) may not come into contact with the drum. You can shim the pivot shaft to move the shoes out a bit, so that when the opposit end is expanded by the lever, the shoes are in better contact with the drum, across their entire surface.

- Darrell

Also that was a great reason the running of the `dead idle` was common. Almost no brakes combined with the overweight flywheels made for a different mindset when setting up the bike, let alone riding the sections! I can`t believe how much fun I had riding one!!

Fit an Xl250 Honda wheel on the front. Not too much trouble and the brakes are great. Twice the size of Montesa and for the purists not exactly to original but it slows down better!

Fit an Xl250 Honda wheel on the front. Not too much trouble and the brakes are great. Twice the size of Montesa and for the purists not exactly to original but it slows down better!

Can you post a pic of your setup and tell me what was needed to get it to work ? I'm restoring one now but the front brake was seized solid and the backing plate broke during removal.