Hi

I have just ordered the thicker clutch plate off GAS GAS UK so that the bike will disengage the clutch quicker, a 2mm instead of the normal 1.5mm and also ordered a new water pump seal as I'm losing water into the gearbox. I have asked them for some expanded diagrams but is there any pointers anyone can give me as well ......

I need to replace a leaking water seal and also fit the new clutch plate, but a little unsure exactly what to do and dont want to mess things (which I am quite good at!!) I do know that I will probably need to grind down a socket to get the clutch basket out.

Any information or pointers would be greatly appreciated.

My bike is a 2010 TXT50 Boy

Many thanks

Smudger

Edited October 18, 201015 yr by smudger984

Sorry I can't help you yet because I haven't worked on my 2011 Gas Gas Boy 50 yet, but please tell me more about the clutch mod you are about to do. I think the (auto) clutch engages at too high an RPM. I want it to engage at lower RPM. Is that what you are seeking to do also?

Sorry I can't help you yet because I haven't worked on my 2011 Gas Gas Boy 50 yet, but please tell me more about the clutch mod you are about to do. I think the (auto) clutch engages at too high an RPM. I want it to engage at lower RPM. Is that what you are seeking to do also?

That

I've looked everywhere for a parts diagram or a workshop manual for the boy-50 (mine is a 2006) but no luck at all. I spoke to one GG dealer who said that even he didn't have access to a workshop manual, in fact maybe GG never even published one.

So if you find anything at all, please post where you got it. Also, if you don't mind, please take pics of both your projects, as they are on my winter project list.

Heres what I got sent......

Clutch.pdf

Clutch Parts

Waterpump

Waterpump Parts

Edited October 28, 201015 yr by smudger984

Smudger, thanks for the parts diagrams, they are very helpful. Do you by chance have diagrams of the forks?

How did you remove the water pump? Did you have to split the cases, or does it pull out somehow?

Smudger, thanks for the parts diagrams, they are very helpful. Do you by chance have diagrams of the forks?

How did you remove the water pump? Did you have to split the cases, or does it pull out somehow?

My mate did mine I'm not the best mechanic...

From what he told me you need to take off the kickstart then the casing then remove the clutch and the water pump is behind the clutch, he did say it was quite fiddly. and you do need a really slim 15mm socket to get the clutch out, my mate ground down an old one but he said he had to really take a lot off to get it to slide in.

I dont have any spec on the forks sorry...

Edited October 31, 201015 yr by smudger984

What exactly was leaking on your water pump? Mine clearly has a damaged o-ring on the outside of pump body. I'm tempted just to replace that o-ring without messing with the internal pump seals.

I got the water pump out. Came out just like your mate said: remove clutch, undo 1 bolt which holds waterpump body, and then pull the pump out. That last step is easier said than done because the pump body has 2 o-rings that make it sit very tight inside the crankcase. I had to get clever about it. With the pump still in place I tapped 8 mm threads into the pump boss (the one through which that one pump bolt goes). Then I screwed in an 8 mm bolt, and gave it a good pull.

Looking back at it, I think there is another way to remove it. It might be possible to use compressed air to pressurize the cooling system through the radiator cap, which in turn should push the pump out of its hole. Just be prepared for a gusher of coolant when the pump comes out, and have a friend hold on to the pump while you're pressurizing the system, or else it might become a dangerous projectile.

I just noticed something very interesting in the parts list for the clutch:

Clutch Parts

#13 Clutch spring TXT50: MIT50032015(2) / EC50: MIT50032015(4)

According to this parts list, EC50 should have 4 clutch springs, but TXT50 is supposed to have only 2! In reality my TXT50 has 4 springs. Reducing it to 2 springs will soften the clutch hit and make it engage at a lower rpm. Could it be that due to a parts-room mixup the factory is installing the same clutch assembly into the TXT50 trials bikes as they are installing into the EC50 enduro bikes? Could it be that TXT50 engineers designed it to have only 2 springs, and therefore a much softer clutch? Could it be that the popular 2mm clutch plate modification is really unnecessary, and the right "fix" is just to remove the "extra" 2 springs?

I just noticed something very interesting in the parts list for the clutch:

Clutch Parts

#13 Clutch spring TXT50: MIT50032015(2) / EC50: MIT50032015(4)

According to this parts list, EC50 should have 4 clutch springs, but TXT50 is supposed to have only 2! In reality my TXT50 has 4 springs. Reducing it to 2 springs will soften the clutch hit and make it engage at a lower rpm. Could it be that due to a parts-room mixup the factory is installing the same clutch assembly into the TXT50 trials bikes as they are installing into the EC50 enduro bikes? Could it be that TXT50 engineers designed it to have only 2 springs, and therefore a much softer clutch? Could it be that the popular 2mm clutch plate modification is really unnecessary, and the right "fix" is just to remove the "extra" 2 springs?

Thats interesting !!!!

An update, my son rode the bike in a trial on Saturday. (and won his first trial !!!!).

Ok the clutch still wants to drive when cold but once the bike warmed up it was fine and I think it did become easier to ride for my boy, the only issues are these:

The bike does not want to change gear while started, I am guessing that the bike is still driving a little and the clutch still not engaged correctly to change gear, not a big issue just turn the bike off put in second when we had a long ride between sections which was only once per lap.

Also the manual clutch is not doing anything or rather not engaging enough, it does still work but not enough for my boy to be able to use it but there is still some free play in the lever so I am going to adjust and test again.

Although I think its better its still not perfect so would be interested in hearing what the bike does with 2 springs????

On another note the oil is still milky, I am going to change it again to make sure that there wasnt a bit of water left in it before but I am worried as my mate said that the water pump does not sit correctly in the housing when the bolt is tightned !!!

My mate did think that the original leak was coming from the o rings you mentioned, as Gas Gas did not tell me I needed these as well, my mate put them back with special sealant, he does think that this should work but like I mentioned he is more concerned that the casing is not correct and when the water pump is tighted the water pump sits out of line....

Will just need to keep an eye on it and see what happens.... Oh the other thing it mentioned was that the water pump when he took it off didnt look like it was circulating the water correctly due to the water pump not sitting correctly, I believe this to be true as on Saturday was the first time I noticed that the fan came on.

Cheers

Smudger

Edited November 4, 201015 yr by smudger984

Has anyone yet tried using the standard plates and running with only two springs?

you do need a really slim 15mm socket to get the clutch out, my mate ground down an old one but he said he had to really take a lot off to get it to slide in.

I have a wobbly clutch basket, suppose the bearings are giving in, so the gear is not engaging. I have been having a hard time in the US finding a 15mm socket with an outer diameter that is 20mm or less (I measured the nut hole to just a hair over 20mm). Not even on Sears or Ebay. I may have to take a 15mm socket and have it ground down in a machine shop, or buy a grinder.

And by the way, the bike was bought used and had only two of the four clutch springs, and when it ran, it ran fine and the clutch engaged great.

Edited March 20, 201313 yr by juanroberts

I had a 20.6mm-thick 15mm socket ground down to just below 20mm and it now slides in. However, the nut holding the clutch basket will not come loose. I already tried dropping rope in down the spark plug hole, and even used an impact/power socket. Lastly, I tried it in reverse to see if the nut was a reverse thread and had no luck. Any suggestions on which way the threads go (normal vs backwards)?

Thanks!

Question, 

 

Does the txt boy have a coolant weephole?  And where is it located?

Edited November 18, 20205 yr by Basman