like so many other posts on the subject of Beta gear selection, i am completely fed up with the Bike. if i spent

Hi have you tryed clutch mod as posted at top of forum? I used pj1 in my rev3 but it didnt seem to last long before becoming diff to find neutral and gears notchy! I then switched to atf fluid and had no bother after that. I use ford auto box fluid which costs about

I use ATF in my 270 REV 3, 2006. I buy it from a local motor factors at about

The Dan Wiiliams Clutch Mod and Elf Oil....no problems with my Evo. It's worth it.

After buying a 2010 with the clutch 'hanging on' I took the plates out and washed them in petrol

and then changed to ATF Dextron as recommended for Gas-Gas.

There is a real improvement but still almost impossible to change gear at standstill with engine running.

Thanks for the replys so far, I have had the cluth plates out and done the mod, it made a difference for about 10 sections, then back to the previous state. I will give ATF a go, failing that I can feel a sherco coming!

Im on my 8th beta and always used bellray 75 with no problems.

After buying a 2010 with the clutch 'hanging on' I took the plates out and washed them in petrol

and then changed to ATF Dextron as recommended for Gas-Gas.

There is a real improvement but still almost impossible to change gear at standstill with engine running.

which atf dextron was it? cheers

I think it was Putoline GM Dexron IID

Has anyone had significant inprovements using differnt oils? if so what brand and weight.

Has anyone used Dexron 3? again if you have what brand?

Any reply would be appreciated.

Paul.

Interestingly, I was recently advised by someone with an incredible EVO clutch (mods done) that they use a 50/50 mix of synthetic 10W40 and ATF Dexron. Never heard of anyone using a cocktail, but he said he has for years, and it obviously works, as evident in his bike's performance.

Hi All

Has anyone thought it may have little to do with the oil/atf people use ?

But its to do with the gear selector and spring strength ?

Most peoples clutches work ok... it is just hard to select neutral with the engine running after another gear has been selected first.

To prove this - it should be harder to shift from 2 to 3 while stationary with engine running than from 2 to neutral !

If this is the case its nothing to do with the oil or clutch but the gear selector and spring strength.....( yes the clutch mod helps get rid of excess oil in the clutch while engine is running and helps stops hydralic lock)

People can change oil etc etc ....most would notice a little difference!! much of this is in the mind ;-)

Cheers

Edited November 20, 201015 yr by mobbster

The Dan Williams clutch mod is a must and i also use GM autotrac 2 transmission oil set at 425cc's. I think stock oil volume is 480cc's. The clutch engagement is much much better than stock, and If you set the clutch lever in the right spot you will get full disengagment of the clutch when the lever is pulled to your fingers, and your shifting at a standstill with the motor running will be very easy as it should be. I also added 3mm thick washers under each clutch spring retainer. I had to remove the crosshatch bracing on the inside of the clutch cover to acomadate the higher spring. This mod reduced the spring preload enough that the clutch pull is now very light. After almost a year of using this setup I have had no slipping problems yet. I ride Intermideiate skill level.

Edited November 21, 201015 yr by Liviob

Well, all these discussions of "absolutely necessary" clutch mods, and picking the "correct" and "critical" gear oil had me concerned as I endured the months of wait, for my 2011 EVO to arrive. Finally able to pick it up LATE Friday night, prepped it till midnight, and out for the first ride yesterday.

Since it came with an empty gearbox, I had to make a choice. Filled it with Castrol MTX fully synthetic 80w gear oil. I don't know if Beta has been reading this thread, or others, but it seams that they have done something, because my clutch was absolutely WONDERFUL! Extremely smooth and progressive, with a wide range of engagement. There was no drag with the clutch in, shifted great, and even with the engine cold, and new, I clicked it into gear with no lurch forward.

Interested to hear from other 2011 owners as to whether your experience has been the same. Did Beta finally start doing the mods at the factory, or maybe impose better quality on their clutch disk vendor?

- Darrell

My 2009 was just as you say your 2011 is when it was new. It worked fine. Then It slowly deteriorated to what most everyone has complained about after about six months use.

Hi ALL

@DG Shannon if you read the spec sheet for 2011 beta over 2010 they have changed the profile of the cut gears so they mesh together easier...

Hence gear changes should be much smoother and gear engagement better.

Cheers