December 31, 201015 yr Hi Guy's. Well if you want to build a Pre 65 Bantam, with suspension, you have to go for the D3 frame? Although the D7 was about before 1965, There was never a works model to base,a trials bike on. The factory did not start to play with the later Bantam as a Trials bike, until 1966! Also you would be restricted to a 3 speed gearbox. Regards Charlie.
December 31, 201015 yr Author (& alloy handle bars, modern tyres, modern shocks, repositioned foot rests, altered steering angle) but apart from the above, genuine pre - 65. Not mocking but how do you define "genuine" ? Well I have a BSA MX bike that is the same as the day it rolled out the factory including steel bars and yokes and the same with my Greeves & Bultaco I only like to do mods that are period I have watched the Pre65 Motocross change over the years & its not much fun now! (unless you spend ££££££ on a bike) It doesnt bother me too much what people do or spend, but it would be nice to have a class for standard (pure Pre 65) bikes Edited December 31, 201015 yr by Monty_Jon
December 31, 201015 yr Well I have a BSA MX bike that is the same as the day it rolled out the factory including steel bars and yokes and the same with my Greeves & Bultaco I only like to do mods that are period I have watched the Pre65 Motocross change over the years & its not much fun now! (unless you spend
December 31, 201015 yr Author So what tyres, oils, cables, plugs and shocks ARE you using then ? Arent alloy mudguards expensive nowadays and fragile OK you win, but I do use R30
January 4, 201115 yr Hi Charlie You talk about having to use a D5 frame to be eligible for pre 65. Why? Most clubs have a different cut of dates for the two stroke class. The original question was all about wide bantam hubs. The original hubs can be widened easly and as Alan pointed out it
January 4, 201115 yr Jack... so to widen the hubs you don't actually add any material, you just turn the centre round?? as I read it. The Bantam I have recently bought(rolling frame and engine) is a road D14b(sport?) and has a full width bigger hub which the road boys like apparently so I need to source a hub any way.
January 4, 201115 yr Jack... so to widen the hubs you don't actually add any material, you just turn the centre round?? as I read it. The Bantam I have recently bought(rolling frame and engine) is a road D14b(sport?) and has a full width bigger hub which the road boys like apparently so I need to source a hub any way. You want to source a cub rear, I believe some Bantam hubs are narrower than cubs I've done this mod for quite a few people on cubs. Your D14b sports should render quite afew sellable parts. The forks are two small to trick up to 35 mm but will trick up to 32 mm. The best cheap engine mod is to go 185, the barrel bored out to accept a Suzuki ts 185 piston. Again I have done this mod for about 15 people.
January 4, 201115 yr You want to source a cub rear, I believe some Bantam hubs are narrower than cubs I've done this mod for quite a few people on cubs. Your D14b sports should render quite afew sellable parts. The forks are two small to trick up to 35 mm but will trick up to 32 mm. The best cheap engine mod is to go 185, the barrel bored out to accept a Suzuki ts 185 piston. Again I have done this mod for about 15 people. Thanks. I was looking a either the TS piston or the Rex Caunt piston kit, not sure yet, as for forks I can use some TY or whatever and enter the specials class in BMCA, probably only the hub on my bike that is any use for the road boys.. rims etc shot.
January 5, 201115 yr Author Hi Charlie You talk about having to use a D5 frame to be eligible for pre 65. Why? Most clubs have a different cut of dates for the two stroke class. The original question was all about wide bantam hubs. The original hubs can be widened easly and as Alan pointed out it
January 5, 201115 yr Whats the best size rim to use (on the rear) WM2 or WM3? I know people who use either. Personally i would stick with a WM2 as to me it gives a better footprint to the rear tyre but some do prefer the WM3 but i felt it didnt give so much grip especially on cambers. Think the WM2 is more easily available second hand too plus security bolts are cheaper. Edited January 5, 201115 yr by Old trials fanatic
January 7, 201115 yr think if you are going to quote names there are more than just Alan W. Interested to know who else does similar parts to Alan Whitton ?
January 7, 201115 yr http://www.yorksclassictrials.co.uk/#/classified-adverts/4543674651 then of course theres the guru of outlane and others working out of sheds/ lean to's/ workshops etc, come to trial and ask the riders where they got thier bits..
January 8, 201115 yr http://www.yorksclassictrials.co.uk/#/classified-adverts/4543674651 then of course theres the guru of outlane and others working out of sheds/ lean to's/ workshops etc, come to trial and ask the riders where they got thier bits.. Hi Total how would you like to become my business manager.
January 11, 201115 yr Author I know people who use either. Personally i would stick with a WM2 as to me it gives a better footprint to the rear tyre but some do prefer the WM3 but i felt it didnt give so much grip especially on cambers. Think the WM2 is more easily available second hand too plus security bolts are cheaper. What rim was fitted to the cub, I guess it was probably smaller than a 18
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