February 2, 201115 yr Just got myself a 2010 290, however seems the rear sussies are creeking a bit, what requiers doing to solve this and or what is causing this ?
February 2, 201115 yr Just got myself a 2010 290, however seems the rear sussies are creeking a bit, what requiers doing to solve this and or what is causing this ? Carefully strip, clean, examine, grease and rebuild. Do this once a year and it will pay off in the long run. I always take a few stage photos as it comes apart then if I can't remember what went where, I just look at the pictures.
February 2, 201115 yr Check the rose joints on the shocker (top and bottom)... sometimes they squeak. Otherwise with the linkage (if its like a GG) do the links nearest the back tyre (lowest hanging ones on the 'bones')everytime you ride in significant water/mud. The rest wants pulling out and greasing at least every 3 months!!
February 2, 201115 yr Author Check the rose joints on the shocker (top and bottom)... sometimes they squeak. Seems to be coming from the bottom part ! However, can't get the bolt out from the bottom, it's solid, am I missing something in the removal of the bolt ?? strip and grease every 3 months stuart. Half way thru it now Willie for my own piece of mind, but as stated, it's coming from the bottom of the shock.
February 2, 201115 yr Author all done, and creeking stopped, well happy with that being my first ever attempt
February 2, 201115 yr I find the easy way to do the linkage bearing on a sherco, is to take out the top shock bolt first. This allows the shock to drop enough to get the bottom bolt out.. Rest you can you can get at easy enough..
February 2, 201115 yr Author I find the easy way to do the linkage bearing on a sherco, is to take out the top shock bolt first. This allows the shock to drop enough to get the bottom bolt out.. Rest you can you can get at easy enough.. Getting into the top bolt isn't the easiest. off with the tank for me and rear wheel, tho a lot of extra stuff to do, made getting into it all much easier.
February 2, 201115 yr Getting into the top bolt isn't the easiest. off with the tank for me and rear wheel, tho a lot of extra stuff to do, made getting into it all much easier. You should have got your "Wee" pal George to do it for you Me thinks you've travelled miles to buy a "Crock O' Sh*t" It will make it easier for me to kick your ass on Sunday @ Drumcarro Edited February 2, 201115 yr by Stevecollie
February 2, 201115 yr Author You should have got your "Wee" pal George to do it for you Me thinks you've travelled miles to buy a "Crock O' Sh*t" It will make it easier for me to kick your ass on Sunday @ Drumcarro Think you'll find it's all hunky dory now fatboy
February 3, 201115 yr Getting into the top bolt isn't the easiest. off with the tank for me and rear wheel, tho a lot of extra stuff to do, made getting into it all much easier. Did my rear suspension last week. Lesson 1. Remove tank. It makes access much easier. Lesson 2. Label which pipe is which. There's into the petrol pump, out of the petrol pump and the vacuum/pressure pipe to the inlet manifold. Lesson 3. Don't assume that the threaded hole onto which the mudguard screws is blind. It is not. Petrol p****d all over the place (note to self: must check tank for swarf). Lesson 4. it's easier to put bolts back into dog bones etc with bike lying on its side. This takes the load of the s/arm off the linkage. Lesson 5. Not a lesson but I would have thought it obvious to remove the rear wheel. Edited February 3, 201115 yr by TooFastTim
February 3, 201115 yr All good to insure these things are well greased and such, but back to original post. If the rose joints get a bit creakey, a shot of spray lube(WD)usually settles them. Hit them after washing along with the other stuff! And TFT needs to clear out his messages! Edited February 3, 201115 yr by copemech
February 3, 201115 yr Author Did my rear suspension last week. Lesson 1. Remove tank. It makes access much easier. Lesson 2. Label which pipe is which. There's into the petrol pump, out of the petrol pump and the vacuum/pressure pipe to the inlet manifold. Lesson 3. Don't assume that the threaded hole onto which the mudguard screws is blind. It is not. Petrol p****d all over the place (note to self: must check tank for swarf). Lesson 4. it's easier to put bolts back into dog bones etc with bike lying on its side. This takes the load of the s/arm off the linkage. Lesson 5. Not a lesson but I would have thought it obvious to remove the rear wheel. All good, I went in to it all a bit blind, but having done it for the first time, I have no fears about doing it again, and now I know my way round the bike hopefully manage it in double quick time.
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