March 31, 201115 yr Do you have to take the caliper off to change the pads on the front brake? Anything to watch out for when doing this job Thanks in advance for any advice. :banana2:
March 31, 201115 yr Do you have to take the caliper off to change the pads on the front brake? Anything to watch out for when doing this job Thanks in advance for any advice. :banana2: Just the spring clip thingy and 1 bolt (m6), pull them out and pop the new ones in....done ! You will have to push the pistons back in for the new pads to fit, just place a wide flat blade screw-driver between old pad and piston then twist ! Edited March 31, 201115 yr by houseape1000
March 31, 201115 yr Author Just the spring clip thingy and 1 bolt (m6), pull them out and pop the new ones in....done ! You will have to push the pistons back in for the new pads to fit, just place a wide flat blade screw-driver between old pad and piston then twist ! Great Thanks
June 16, 201115 yr Author Well now the front brake is as spongy as a very spongy thing Any tips for bleeding it. Pumping the lever seems to shift such a small amount of fluid that the air isn't pushed out Last trial with it in this state was interesting, it pumps up after a few uses but isn't as sharp as I'd like. Kept me focused though... two dabs only
June 16, 201115 yr Get a length of hose attached to a large syringe (oil mix/gearbox filler type), attach to the bleed nipple and literally suck the fluid through, helps if you have another body to keep the reservoir topped up while you are sucking it through. When no more bubbles, just clean fluid, simply nip the nipple back up and done!
June 18, 201115 yr Author I'd thought I'd try blowing fluid through with an easy bleed adapted to blow through the bleed nipple. Hadn't thought of sucking the fluid through though. What grade hydraulic fluid should go in?
June 18, 201115 yr Author I use DOT 4 and have never had any issues. Good, that's what I've used but I saw some extra low viscosity Dot 4 and it set me wondering if that would be better
June 18, 201115 yr this may not be the solution, but in the past when i've had this problem i've riden the bike holding the front brake until disk in dam hot then put water onto the caliper, bingo sh*t hot brake. that's my method. hope you sort it out. Edited June 18, 201115 yr by coldcake
June 18, 201115 yr I too use this method of heating and cooling and can vouch for it working to bed the pads in, however I think you still have to have a decent bleed to take all the sponge out of the lever first before sharpening up the pads with the quenching method
June 27, 201115 yr Author Finally sorted it, took the calliper off the fork and bled it raised above the level of the master cylinder, there was lots of air that the small piston just wasn't shifting far enough down the system to expel out of the bleed nipple without the assistance of gravity. A new set of pads helped loads too. Thanks for all the suggetions
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