hy does anyone have any tips on how to remove a bottom yoke bearing its on propper good and i dont want to scratch powder coat any ideas regards ste

hy does anyone have any tips on how to remove a bottom yoke bearing its on propper good and i dont want to scratch powder coat any ideas regards ste

There's cutting with a Dremel abrasive wheel and spliting the inner race with a chisel, but I usually just press the stem out of the tripleclamp, which pops the bearing off intact. Then press the stem back into the clamp and put in a plastic bag in the freezer, use a little anti-seize where the inner race is tight at the bottom of the stem and use a piece of tubing that just fits the inner race (and doesnt interfere with the cage) to lightly drive it on.

Jon

There's cutting with a Dremel abrasive wheel and spliting the inner race with a chisel, but I usually just press the stem out of the tripleclamp, which pops the bearing off intact. Then press the stem back into the clamp and put in a plastic bag in the freezer, use a little anti-seize where the inner race is tight at the bottom of the stem and use a piece of tubing that just fits the inner race (and doesnt interfere with the cage) to lightly drive it on.

Jon

Hmmm.... If you haven't got the tools to press out, then I would use the dremel method: VERY CAREFULLY cut two slots opposite each other (trying to avoid damaging the bottom yoke or stem), but not full depth of the shell and then, with a cold chisle placed securely in one of the slots, give the chisle a good whack.In my experience the bearing shell will "shatter" and job done

I did this job a couple of different ways in the past. The method that works best for me involves a Dremel, but I do not try to split the race. Here is what I do: first I cut the cage that holds the rollers, split it, and throw away the rollers. This exposes a lip at the narrow end of the tapered race, against which you can use a sharp punch. Sometimes that lip isn't enough, so I use a Dremel cutoff wheel to grind a nice beefy recess near the wide end of the bearing race. Hold the wheel parallel to the bottom yoke, but don't get too close to the yoke. Recess depth of about 2 mm should be enough to set your punch securely.

Installation: freeze the stem for a few hours, and warm up the bearing inner race with a propane torch. Grease the stem, and slip on the bearing. If you happen to have a steel pipe just slightly larger diameter than the stem, you can use it to drive on the new bearing. But if you don't have the pipe, you can use the old race that you've just removed. Use the Dremel tool to split it in 1 spot, so it will come off the stem easily. Grease the stem, slide the new bearing onto the stem. Turn the old race up-side-down and slide it on. Now take the whole assembly, turn it up-side-down, and rest the wide lip of the old race against something solid like the open jaws of a vise. Place a block of wood on top of the yoke, and hammer away (basically you are driving the stem into the bearing).