Thanks for all the input on my "bleeding the clutch" post! I have taken care of that part and have now moved into the clutch pack itself. I had changed the gearcase oil which had atf in it and replaced it with 5w30 as recommended and it got worse. I removed the clutch discs/plates which were very sticky so I may put atf type f in as I read that it is thinner. The springs are within the specs. I have a spare clutch pack that cam with the bike that looks to have low use and may replace the sticky ones with that set. I also will check the plates for warpage.at what spec should I torque the clutch cover bolts? If there is any other areas to check out that I missed please add your input.

Thanks again! Steve

Don't run the 320 with ATF use a good 10w/40w oil.

I ran mine with only four springs and it would only slip in 5th gear with a big handfull.Made rideing in the sections alot better as the clutch was very on off with all six springs in.

The spring bolts just need to nipped up thight with a spanner.

Don't run the 320 with ATF use a good 10w/40w oil.

I ran mine with only four springs and it would only slip in 5th gear with a big handfull.Made rideing in the sections alot better as the clutch was very on off with all six springs in.

The spring bolts just need to nipped up thight with a spanner.

I had exactly the same problem with my 320 , for the price of them , get a seal kit for the slave cylinder ,its a new piston and seal , and the master cyclinder kit is cheap enough too, that way all done, i bought a new master cyclinder found one at the right price but same thing , sorted now.

initially the clutch went from dragging badly ( no clutch at all) to slipping after done the above ,but had i checked the plates proparly would of seen no meat on em! solved that at the same time...

the srpings where 60p each so replaced them too but i put all six back as per gas gas vids on you tube

cheers jon