Mine's failed on my 2008 280 pro. Has anyone identified the seal and managed to buy it from a seal / bearing outlet at the fraction of the Gas Gas price ? if not and I have to buy from Gas Gas, is it worth buying the whole kit or just trying the seal first ?

When it's all done and I put the new oil in, I suspect it will get itself contaminated from the lot I have drained out ( there's bound to be some left ) is there a product I should use to flush it out, I've heard people mention diesel, but I'm concerned that may attack the seals.

When it's all done and I put the new oil in, I suspect it will get itself contaminated from the lot I have drained out ( there's bound to be some left ) is there a product I should use to flush it out, I've heard people mention diesel, but I'm concerned that may attack the seals.

I have no problem flushing with diesel fuel.....it is oil.....and the seals are oil seals. After flushing I would add the regular oil and ride it for a bit - then drain it and refill with new oil.

Buy the kit.

When you take it apart, you'll likely notice that the shaft is grooved.

Kinda hard to believe that a rubber seal can wipe out a hardened steel shaft, but there ya have it.

Make sure you use motorcycle coolant that says non-abrasive.

While you're there, you might want to replace the clutch slave cylinder o-rings.

No telling what the coolant in the case has done to them, and it's cheap and easy to replace them.

I just did it.

Thanks for your advice, I'll take it apart and inspect it, looks like a kit will be the best option.

Purpose-made seals seem shockingly expensive, eh?

Some fork seals are crazy.

Thanks for your advice, I'll take it apart and inspect it, looks like a kit will be the best option.

Not sure what fork seal grease is, but these rubber parts can be very picky about contaminants.

Clean everything to spotless...including your hands...before assembly.

I use a silicone-based assembly lube.