June 30, 201115 yr looks just like mine, which is an 03 model.... not sure how you can tell form a distance that is an 01.....can anyone tell us what the give away clues are ?
June 30, 201115 yr Rear brake pedal (solid one-piece), Rear brake caliper (not flush with the swing-arm), No plastic heat shield on the exhaust silencer, Front brake caliper (looks like a double piston instead of a quad), Blue 2001 colour-scheme and graphics on the tank and the rear mud-guard??!! I can't be 100% sure just about 95% ?
June 30, 201115 yr Rear brake pedal (solid one-piece), Rear brake caliper (not flush with the swing-arm), No plastic heat shield on the exhaust silencer, Front brake caliper (looks like a double piston instead of a quad), Blue 2001 colour-scheme and graphics on the tank and the rear mud-guard??!! I can't be 100% sure just about 95% ? Thats pretty much the way I saw it. I only know because I've got a 250 the same year!! Any of the plastics from the later years will fit so long as they are blue. The decals are different for the various years but they will fit. Phil
June 30, 201115 yr Rear brake pedal (solid one-piece), Rear brake caliper (not flush with the swing-arm), No plastic heat shield on the exhaust silencer, Front brake caliper (looks like a double piston instead of a quad), Blue 2001 colour-scheme and graphics on the tank and the rear mud-guard??!! I can't be 100% sure just about 95% ? hahahh fair do's...... wasnt questioning it, just curious as im not clued up enough to tell the difference, but now youve pointed it out im on the ball...hahahaha
July 1, 201115 yr Author In the process of cleaning and tarting up the bike and noticed that I'm missing one of the blue caps that cover the top of the forks. pic I can't see it being much of a problem but should I replace it? In the process of replacing the front mudguard and when unscrewing one of the two bolts that hold it on, one of the screw heads snapped leaving it stuck in the thread. Not sure how I'm going to get that out yet. There seems quite a few rusty old bolts on the bike. I'm going to replace the rear mudguard but it looks like its melted a little against the silencer. pic Is it worth replacing or is this likely to happen again?
July 1, 201115 yr In the process of cleaning and tarting up the bike and noticed that I'm missing one of the blue caps that cover the top of the forks. pic I can't see it being much of a problem but should I replace it? In the process of replacing the front mudguard and when unscrewing one of the two bolts that hold it on, one of the screw heads snapped leaving it stuck in the thread. Not sure how I'm going to get that out yet. There seems quite a few rusty old bolts on the bike. I'm going to replace the rear mudguard but it looks like its melted a little against the silencer. pic[/url Is it worth replacing or is this likely to happen again? 1. YES!! replace that little blue cap, The threaded hole that the cap goes into is a direct hole to the internals of the fork. It may be worth while to strip the fork apart to make sure there is still fork oil in there/check for dirt in there to mess up your fork seal. 2. If you ride like 90% of us on here a little melted plastic won't look as bad as the cracks/breaks and folds that will happen after many crashes.
July 2, 201115 yr Ok, any ideas where to get one from? If that fork has been open for any length of time and has water init, you need to get it out, and if unsure do it anyway. Parts are available through your Sherco dealer, of online at any number of Bannar ad dealers here. Trials UK, Splatshop for starters. Bike looks pretty clean, so worth a bit of maintenance. I would drain the forks and go back with 330ml per leg of fresh 5w fork fluid. If the one side comes out milky, flush it well with diesel or kero to get the water out or strip and clean. Trapped water in there is no good. They now offer a heatshield application(adhesive fiberglass insulator) for the mudguards. Yours looks so clean it may be orig and not have one. Edited July 2, 201115 yr by copemech
July 2, 201115 yr Author I've only had the bike a week and it was like that when I got it so I will have a go at stripping it down. I've ordered one from splat. Thanks for the advice, very much appreciated.
July 2, 201115 yr I've only had the bike a week and it was like that when I got it so I will have a go at stripping it down. I've ordered one from splat. Thanks for the advice, very much appreciated. yes mate, was gonna reccomend spaltshop to you, but i can see your sorted....
July 2, 201115 yr I've only had the bike a week and it was like that when I got it so I will have a go at stripping it down. I've ordered one from splat. Thanks for the advice, very much appreciated. Get two o-ring seals, and replace the other as well cause they leak.
July 5, 201115 yr Author I think I've bought a rotter! Another problem. After having owned the bike a week I've noticed the back wheel looks seriously buckled. On closer inspection the tyre isn't seated properly on the rim. So that looks fixable. Whilst I was looking, I put the bike on a stand with the back wheel in the air. I held a screw driver about a millimeter away from the rim and spun the wheel slowly. Part the way round the gap increased to about 3 mm. Is this ok? or does it need truing? or replacing?
July 5, 201115 yr In the process of replacing the front mudguard and when unscrewing one of the two bolts that hold it on, one of the screw heads snapped leaving it stuck in the thread. Not sure how I'm going to get that out yet. There seems quite a few rusty old bolts on the bike. Did you manage to remove the broken screw? Do yourself a favour and apply PlusGas or some other suitable penetrating oil to all of those old rusty nuts and bolts. Remove and lubricate them all now rather than waiting until you need to do so.
July 5, 201115 yr Author Yes. I managed to drill out the remaining screw body without affecting the thread. Thanks for the tip, I will do that.
July 6, 201115 yr I think I've bought a rotter! Another problem. After having owned the bike a week I've noticed the back wheel looks seriously buckled. On closer inspection the tyre isn't seated properly on the rim. So that looks fixable. Whilst I was looking, I put the bike on a stand with the back wheel in the air. I held a screw driver about a millimeter away from the rim and spun the wheel slowly. Part the way round the gap increased to about 3 mm. Is this ok? or does it need truing? or replacing? IMHO 3mm is not 'seriously buckled', dinna worry. I'd like to know what other peeps think about that?
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