Hi, I had a 2005 GG 300 pro, which had a dragging clutch. I now have 2010 GG 250 (which hasn't had much use), when the bike is on the stand, should the wheel turn with clutch fully in, in gear.

I've tried adjusting the pin, in and out and doesn't make any difference to the wheel turning, is this normal, or should the wheel be totally still with clutch lever pulled in.

Sorry if this is a dull question, but it's bugging me now!!

Many thanks for any response, Richard.

Wheel turning while on stand is normal. Bike should not move when the bike is on the ground.

Nigel

my 06 250pro clutch drags slightly even when adjusted correctly.

Enough to rotate wheel on stand and gently roll the bike forward if you arent sitting on it.

Not enough to affect the bike in section, but doesnt want to go into neutral when the bike is moving.

I had the clutch apart to measure the clutch plates against the spec. They were absolutely spot on!

Aparently clutches more often swell rather than wear thin (never heard of this before)

Spoke to gasgas UK who said that this was normal and indicated it wasnt worth chasing perfection.

Lastly, its better when warm, i use Dextron 3 ATF

Much worse for me is the fast engagement of the clutch compared to say a Beta (which is very progressive)

Dom

Hi, I had a 2005 GG 300 pro, which had a dragging clutch. I now have 2010 GG 250 (which hasn't had much use), when the bike is on the stand, should the wheel turn with clutch fully in, in gear.

I've tried adjusting the pin, in and out and doesn't make any difference to the wheel turning, is this normal, or should the wheel be totally still with clutch lever pulled in.

Sorry if this is a dull question, but it's bugging me now!!

Many thanks for any response, Richard.

Slight clutch drag is normal and the wheel spin test on the stand bears little relevance to how the bike operates in a section so I would not worry about that.

Adjusting the "pin" (I'm assuming you mean the one on the lever) in and out to fix clutch drag will only cause problems and in most cases, more drag/slippage. First adjust the lever throw (how far out the lever is to start with) by holding on to the grip and use your extended "clutch finger" at a comfortable spot where you would normally modulate the clutch engagement, then add a few mm's to that for maximum throw. Due to hand size and finger length, it is different for each rider (which is why it is adjustable). Now you want to adjust the pin on the lever by turning it in/out to just barely contact the plunger that goes through the rubber boot on the master cylinder assembly. Turning it in from that will cause clutch slippage and out from that will cause more drag. From maximum throw setting, the lever should travel a mm or two before it starts to put pressure on the plunger.

Jon