Got a wee leak in my radiator.(The Scorpa's not the one in the kitchen)

Should I bite the bullet and send it away again for repair?

Or, is there a cheaper option?

Obviously being a Fifer I,m keener on the cheaper option.

Replies from likeminded skinflints appreciated.

Got a wee leak in my radiator.(The Scorpa's not the one in the kitchen)

Should I bite the bullet and send it away again for repair?

Or, is there a cheaper option?

Obviously being a Fifer I,m keener on the cheaper option.

Replies from likeminded skinflints appreciated.

Araldite works for me....just got to keep your eye on it. I rode on an Araldite repair for over a year (20+club trials) with no probs. Goes eventually but repaired it again and still OK to this day (gas gas 250 raga)

Edited May 1, 201214 yr by andat

Think theres a leaky rad repair kit in halfords

Cheers lad's, I thought about Araldite but didn.t think it would like the heat.

Will give it a go as the price is right.

I use a product called Seal - it. They've been making it for years. Used it in everything from bikes to tractors, the rad would have to be in a poor state if did not work. It is sold in small sachets. We used to carry when we went trail riding for emergencies.

I'm sure I saw a Laurel and Hardy film where they put a raw egg into the rad to stop it weeping?

Are you wanting to repair the structure of the rad or bung the leaks with a 'rad-weld' additive ?

If you choose the easy option of the additives ;remember ,our little radiators don't have much in the way of extra capacity on our little trials bikes

There is a heat resistant epoxy resin http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EPOXY-RESIN-HIGH-HEAT-RESISTANT-GLUE-CAST-FIBERGLASSING-/310219575780?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item483a8711e4#ht_39269wt_932 to seal the top (or bottom) tank to the matrix.......... or if the fins have ruptured you could use Durafix http://durafix.co.uk/

I found out about the epoxy after I had paid for a repair to be done at a radiator refurb' company

Wayne

http://www.repairpro...o.uk/page42.htm Its call JB weld just in case link does not work.

See above link, the £14.99 industrial size is a lot better value than the small tubes. Lasts for years.

Cheers

Edited May 2, 201214 yr by Dadof2

Araldites good. Wait till it just starts to "go off" and you can mould it and then force it into the hole. It then mushrooms on the inside of the rad and stops pressure forcing the araldite plug back out. Liquid metal is also good.

Liquid metal and I doesn't go off

I meant "go off" as the material starts to stiffen during reaction?

I meant "go off" as the material starts to stiffen during reaction?

Yes,this is not the Al Qaeda/underpants forum

http://www.repairpro...o.uk/page42.htm Its call JB weld just in case link does not work.

See above link, the £14.99 industrial size is a lot better value than the small tubes. Lasts for years.

Cheers

I've used JB Weld for many years in race engines, from porting changes to re-contouring internal crankcase surfaces. Great stuff and performs well under extreme conditions. Be sure to prepare the surface with a little very rough sandpaper and non-residue solvent. JB also makes a 5-minute cure time epoxy, I've used both and had no problem with either.

Jon