RE: Domino throttle

I know that the black is slow and that the white is fast..........but mine is silver metal one on a beta 270 2006?

I have purchased (but not fitted) a new black slow one thinking that it may make a differnce and it was only a few quid but when I look at it it seems exactly the same as my existing metal one, both only do a 1/4 turn when the cable is attached, can someone tell me exactly how the slow action throttle works? I presumed that you would have to turn it more to get the full power?

If so would I be right in thinking that my existing metal one is also a slow action so no point in swaping them?

And lastly is there any other way of making it even slower action?

I went out yesterday for the first time properly and spent the afternoon hanging on for for my life, it seems to fly away with me and I found it really hard to just potter round slowy (great for thrashing up and down the field though, but this is not why I bought a trials bike)

ive checked and it still has the flywheel weight fitted so now Im thinking unless I can slow it any other way? then I might be better to sell it and get a 125/200

Oh and by the way after all the help ive had over the last couple of weeks I did the decent thing and signed up to be a site supporter, I figured its the least I could do as there are some decent guys on here that dont mind helping a noob with his sill questions.

Thanks, I appreciate it

Hi Sparky:

The slow action throttle works by having a smaller diameter cable track (where the cable connects to the tube) so the tube has to be turned farther to get the same cable pull. The fast action has a larger diameter which means the tube does not have to be turned as far to move the cable the same distance. I went the other way on my OSSA, replacing the black slow tube with the white fast one and I love the "seat of your pants" power delivery it gives.

If the diameters of the black tube and the metal one are the same then they are both slow action, personally I would fit the plastic black one, I once had a metal one that was banged on the end that made it difficult to operate as the tube was out of round.

Try using a higher gear than what you currently use. If you now use second use third etc.

Rather than ripping up the field try low speed figure of eight turns getting as tight as you can until on full lock. What can help here is tunring the tick over up very slighly so you don't need to use the throttle for really slow stuff. You can also use a bit of gentle rear brake.

Dont give up on the 270 until it gets no better after six months. A day out with others will certainly help.

If you do decide to take the weight off it may help? It will pick up even quicker but also shut of quicker. Try it and see. Mine will never be going back on.

Edited August 9, 201214 yr by pindie

There may be enough material in the barrel of the twistgrip to reduce the diameter further. We used to use two hacksaw blades side by side but if you have access to a lathe that would be easier.

It being a Beta I 'spect the clutch doesn't disengage too well either which isn't going to be ver helpfull. Canada 280i has explained re. cable winding around smaller diameter tube will take more winding than a big diameter for the cable to move the same distance... limiting factor on a simple twistgrip or throttle is diameter of handlebar. Many years ago you could get a geared (a bevel gear) throttle but from memory it was a one to one ratio if one could make a driven "gear" or set of "pulley" wheels in a magic box between the handle bar and the carb??? driven pulley could be a cam even for eg. slow bottom end switch top end These type of throttle are available with limiting factor being the smallest "diameter" is determined by the bar dia. I suppose there are whizz kids out there who could make a programmeable fly by wireless transducer to activate throttle slide...how many would one sell though?

Practice.

Folk on here have been riding years. Anything you change will be changed back when you have more hours on your belt. Then you'll only have to re learn it.

I'd been road racing for years. My first trials ride was cataclysmic! (didn't hit a van though). I was befuddled as to how the bike beat me so bad.

Now I can laugh an smile at the noob. Like seeing a learner driver and thinking to yourself that you were never that rubbish.

Enjoy your first steps. Because when you think you've finally sussed it and you're ready to take on the world you won't have the excuse that you're new to it and instead have to embrace mediocrity and marvel at those more fortunate, gifted and talented than yourself.

Madmostins right. Trials is a queer old game but rewarding once you get further into it. Some would say too far....

I find dropping a tooth on the countershaft sprocket makes the 270 much better behaved.

What amount of teeth you running Dan? Dropping a tooth will lower the gearing overall.

Many years ago you could get a geared (a bevel gear) throttle but from memory it was a one to one ratio if one could make a driven "gear" or set of "pulley" wheels in a magic box between the handle bar and the carb??? driven pulley could be a cam even for eg. slow bottom end switch top end These type of throttle are available with limiting factor being the smallest "diameter" is determined by the bar dia. I suppose there are whizz kids out there who could make a programmeable fly by wireless transducer to activate throttle slide...how many would one sell though?

I have no idea what any of this means, but reckon I need a whizz kid to make me one of them wireless tranducer thingys (i'm a sucker for a gadget)

I find dropping a tooth on the countershaft sprocket makes the 270 much better behaved.

Is this easy to do?

Try using a higher gear than what you currently use. If you now use second use third etc.

Dont give up on the 270 until it gets no better after six months.

Your right, practice make perfect, well in most cases anyway.

Think im going to pop out and have a blast for an hour whilst its stoped raining

Very easy to change front sprocket. Loosen rear wheel or remove it to get chain slack. Undo circlip on shaft. Change sprocket. Fit circlip and wheel. Ride.

I think it's a 10. It makes 2nd the default section gear and first for crawling. I find the stock gearing makes second a bit too lively and first still too pokey for most sections.