October 22, 201213 yr Its about time I sorted this out, been like it for a year. Basically when changing gear it stays at the position you shift to and doesn't return to the centre. I can manually still select gears if I put it back to the centre myself and that's why I've never really sorted it. Any pointers as to what it is at fault are greatly appreciated
October 22, 201213 yr Almost certainly return spring broken. You have been lucky so far as if the broken bit gets between two gears that will be expensive. Its not a difficult job. drain coolant remove gear lever and lie bike on its left side remove kickstart remove clutch cover remove clutch pressure plate and plates. remove clutch basket, i use an air gun for the centre nut, dont try and jam the primary gear or clutch basket as it will cause damage. Note where any bearings and shims go when you take it off. you can then inspect the spring. If its broke they are less than a fiver but check which way the tabs go before you remove it you can install the wrong way. have fun !
October 22, 201213 yr Author Sounds like I've been very lucky then, ive rode with it like that for about a year, granted I don't get out much. I read up somwhere else that it may have just not be sat right, that could explain why I've not mullered my gearbox. There anyway to take the centre nut off without an air gun? I don't have access to one at home and would rather not do this job at work. Also at the risk of sounding stupid, what's the reason for draining the coolant? Do you mean gearbox oil?
October 23, 201213 yr I would agree you need to fix this NOW reguardless! Clutch Basket Nut 45 lb/ft (60 n/m) so without a hub holder you need to mark the shaft and nut and put it back to where it was or slightly beyond and do not overtorque! Get someone to do it if you cannot! Yes, be a good boy and drain the coolant so it does not go all in the motor when you remove the side case! The gearbox iol will stay in if the bike is leaned on the left side, but if you have not changed it????? good time to do it! Find that piece of spring! Edited October 23, 201213 yr by copemech
October 23, 201213 yr Just make sure you find the broken bit of spring. It can cause a lot of damage. If in doubt about doing this job get it down to Splatshop. Cheaper in the long run.
October 23, 201213 yr actually you had better drain the oil in case it runs when you remove the shift shaft.
October 23, 201213 yr Author Well I've taken the casings off and drained all the fluids. But can't find my bloody 8mm socket!!! Typical! So the clutch is staying on until I can find it. However looking just below the clutch I can see the bottom part of the spring is in tact and not located properly. I haven't found any broken spring bits after having a rummage around so fingers crossed it has just come dislodged. will probably fit a new spring for good measure. Will report back later when I have more progress
October 23, 201213 yr Had the exact same problem on my son's 2012 125 about three weeks ago... Shifter would stick in the up position, and only return with a tap of the lever. Disassembled expecting to find spring parts in the bottom of the case, but no broken spring. Seemed that the spring had become dislodged, but also may have become weak or slightly bent somehow, as it wouldn't seat and stay for very long when we tried to simply put it back in place. So, we did the job over a second time and replaced with a new spring - Viola, all is good again! Save yourself the 2nd tear down, and just put a new spring in on the first go... The cost of the part is much less than the aggravation of doing the job twice!
October 23, 201213 yr Author Indeed, I've ordered a load of bits from Splatshop to fix it an pimp my bike a little. Anybody know if an impact air gun would be any use on a midget compressor? My compressor is one I nicked from my dad from when he used to do airbrushing so it's tiny. I'm pretty sure I manage to get a tyre back on to the rim though, I must have been extremely lucky.
October 23, 201213 yr When u buy an air gun it should tell u what psi u need to run it,u b better off taking bike to garage or tyre fitters & get them to take nut off for u or buy clutch basket holding tool because remember u still got to put that nut back on with a torque setting & u wont do that with an air gun.
October 23, 201213 yr Author Well I don't wanna pay £75 for a tool, cause that would make me look like a tool. I guess I'd be no different then! I intend to fashion up some sort of tool myself that is up to the task.
October 23, 201213 yr DONT THINK A CLUTCH BASKET HOLDING TOOL IS VERY EXPENSIVE BUT HAVE JUST HAD A THOUGHT ,NOT TRIED IT WITH CLUTCH BASKET REMOVAL BUT BECAUSE ENGINE IS STILL IN BIKE & CHAIN STILL CONNECTED IF U PUT BIKE IN FIRST GEAR & GET SOMEBODY TO HOLD REAR BRAKE ON THAT SHOULD LOCK CLUTCH BASKET & MAYBE U CAN REMOVE NUT THAT WAY.
October 23, 201213 yr TC member Neo recommends a birra wood wedged between primary and clutch gearing to lock it all up 'austerity style'.
October 23, 201213 yr Author Will deffinately try the in gear with brake on method, surely that's the easiest way of going about it? Tell me more about this technique of neo's? I reckon I'd fubar something up though.
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