hi i have some new front brake pads. i was wonderring if any of you could 'walk me through' the procedure. of changing them ..

Drop the front wheel

remove the retaining pin(s) for the old pads

remove the old pads

At this point I usually gently push the caliper piston back in a little with a flat blade screwdriver to open up the gap a little for the new pads

insert new pads

replace retaining pin(s)

reinsert front wheel

tighten axel bolt

ride bike

10 minute job.

Loosen the one retaining bolt.

remove caliper from fork.

spread pads before installing new ones.

Install pads.

Put caliper back on.

Try the brake lever.

Might try the water trick on hot pads to break in.

even quicker suggestion by lineaway, i usually take the opporftunity to grease everything while the wheel is out but if your bearings etc. are okay then his way will be quicker

Cheers guys for that! The new pads do not fit over the disk. So far I have put the old ones back in and tried to puch them back but they won't budge ! Any advice?

So, with the old pads in the caliper you should be able to spread them with a large screw driver. What have you used? And how much pad was left on the old brake pads? If they were all the way to metal, this might not be as easy as we thought!

They had about 1/4 left but wernt very sharp. I used a flat head. Would taking of the the mc cap realease some pressure and make it easier to push them back?

if the caliper wont go back on with the new pads in, then you have not fully retracted the piston.

if the piston wont budge, like you claim, then you have a seized caliper.

You don't need to remove the front wheel, just the caliper. Remove the master cylinder Cap and push the pistons back. My pistons wore a hole through the pad and touched the disc. I had to remove the pistons and make them flat again lol. If your pads wont go in your pistons arent fully back

Main thing is, if the pads wont easily retract the "pistons" that are in the caliper, then 99 of 100 times you have the lever adjuster setup wrong, and the "PLUNGER" that is in the Master Cylinder is not returning to "at rest" position, which allows the hydraulic fluid to flow from cable to resivior. if it ISNT just he adjuster, then it is a smidge of dirt behind the boot, behind the C-Clip that holds the "plunger" and stops it from being able to come fully out on travel.

OR the 1% that I have seen, you have a problem in the caliper, the pistons came out too far,on ONE side and are now "cocked" or crooked and wont go back in. the pistons are made of something that is a fragile as glass/Plastic so DO be carefull how you pry on the pistons themselves, that is why we usually have the "old" pads in there and then jam around with a screwdrivers. I stick a flat blade in mine that is slightly bigger than the gap, and twist the screwdriver and the pads will move "apart" so it shouldn't take excessive force!

All done thanks guys. Had to put old ones back in and put a chisel in and Prise the pistons back. They are also bedded in as well. I just put them through a few cycles (accelerating and then stopping) I did 6 of those (going along in 5 th and stopping and they gradually got sharper) then on the last ones when they were really hot poored cold water over them (water trick - thanks line away ) and now they are lovely and powerfull and sharp!