Just got back from a practice session and noticed oil on bash plate. After checking for loose bolts noticed clutch cover cracked near kick start and oil leaking through seal on kick start...

Does anyone know wether it could be sealed on inside with E metal or epoxy resin ?

Has this occurred with your bike and if so how did you cure it ? Or is the only option to buy a new replacement..... OUCH !

Most likley you have an issue with the idle gear or the kick start paw which has caused the cases to crack.

Yes that may be the cause will find out when I take off the cover and inspect . What would you do with clutch cover attempt repair or buy new ?

same happened to our 11 300 its the kickstart gears when they hit a certain chip the gears will move out of line slightly and there is zero tolerance inbetween so cracks it around the shaft and up. dont think you will be able to repair it tbh. but if the kickstart gears have any marks on change them or the same will happen again.instead of paying for a new one theres a trials breaker called allens used trials spares google it he will have one for the pros.

Replace idle gear also. I went through 3 clutch covers on a 04 300.

Is there a way one can tell, without removing the clutch cover, that the idle gear is wearing down.

In other words, is it possible to prevent the cover from cracking?

I do not know if a RAGA clutch cover is weldable - they are nominally magnesium but it depends exactly what alloy mix it is. May be weldable - take it to someone good with TIG.

I have not tried it yet (but I have heard good reports) that ESAB now supply a special aluminium / alloy brazing / soldering filler that can repair both aluminium and magnesium.

How to tell if kickstart gears are wearing - you can't easily. The best protection is to learn to kick the bike properly ie make sure starter is fully engaged before giving it a good solid shove down, do not repeatedly stab at the kickstart.

Cheers

I had to replace mine on a less than year old 2011, from memory the cover was around £100.

Now I ensure that the bolts are always tight after every trial, fixing it with expoxy is probably not an option, the shaft uses the case as a bearing. Welding however may have a better outcome.

Well I've ordered new one just over £90 and they said they have heard of this happening but don't the cause, been advised just to place and all should be fine ?

Don't worry will be looking at Idle gear ....

Thanks for your help.....Keep them wheels turning

Hello its me again what should I be looking for regarding Damage to Idle gear ?

you need to take the idle gear of with circlip pliers. look for nicks or teeth missing or gashes etc.. you should replace the idle and kickstart pawl (starter 5 tooth one) if any nicks or teeth missing. i am sure someone will post pics soon of there i have 4 idle gears in my garage all chewed lol

need any more advice let me know

ben

The kick start gear engages the idle gear from the back. So the damage will be on the back of the idle gear, the front may still look like new.

Here's what a chipped Idler gear looks like (as said, from the the back side of the gear as it gets installed on the bike):

Here's what the kickstarter pawl gear looks like when it gets boogered up:

Hope this helps some. This is a pretty common problem when the correct starting procedure isn't used...... I *think* it's mostly caused from just stabbing at the lever, instead of slowly engaging the k/s pawl gear by slow rotation of the kick start lever, then pushing it (the lever) through with your weight......

You'll hear quite a bit of clicking/clattering gear noise at idle when the gear looks like this.

Jimmie

Edited October 2, 201312 yr by mr neutron

I cannot tell Neutron, which is worse, stabbing or "carefully" (are you kidding carefully?) what I had happen to me long ago, was attempted to make a kick after pushing on the kicker (trying to get piston right at compression) then kick, was the dog ear gear actually broke. IMHO because it didn't mesh, and full weight of 200+ lbs plus muscle trying to turn the bike over... So now I actually use ONLY my leg, and do it in a swift motion from relaxed un-engaged kicker down to peg. what works best of all is backing up the bike in gear so piston is just passed compression, then doing my kick, there is less "pressure" on starting pawl gear meshing with the idler, and I get a "run" at the compression part of crank rotation. I should take my bike apart, it is on its second year, see what it looks like. it is the 300 std compression head. I almost cannot kick the bike if the starter is at the top and the piston is right up on compression... what I seen happen to a friend on the older 06 Raga with Mag cases, he tried to TDC kick, with his WEIGHT and leverage right DOWN on lever instead of "back and down" on the lever, broke 2 cases on one weekend. sure he no longer has that bike, but I showed him how I do it, he hasn't broken one since that I know of since...

case was expensive, idler and "elephant ear" shaped kicker gear isn't quite as expensive... I think.

I suspect a contributory factor is the use of automatic transmission fluid (Too thin) and the matt finish on the teeth. This prevents them sliding into full engagement. If fitting new idler and pawl then polish the contact areas with fine wet and dry wrapped round a lolly stick or similar. slightly radius the corners on the pawl and idler where they initially mesh