Thinking of putting a boyeson reed valve on my txt pro 280 2002 . It seems a little juddery at bottom end of revs in all gears really . Is the boyeson reed worth the 35 quid price tag. Will it smooth things out a. Bit . I've already serviced carb . New filter and plugs . Any input appreciated nice one

Thinking of putting a boyeson reed valve on my txt pro 280 2002 . It seems a little juddery at bottom end of revs in all gears really . Is the boyeson reed worth the 35 quid price tag. Will it smooth things out a. Bit . I've already serviced carb . New filter and plugs . Any input appreciated nice one

I run Boyesen's in all my bikes. I've found that it really makes power delivery smooth and easy to control under tough situations, like slippery off-cambers.

I wanted to ask if you adjusted the fuel screw on your carb. It's not a static setting but for best results needs to be set for your carb and ambient conditions.

Jon

Hi Jon . When I bought the bike the fuel screw on the carb was all the way tightened up . I've backed it off 3 and half turns now . The problem I am getting is the bike jerks forward when pottering around at low speeds when accelerating its fine . It's the low end revs when noticeable . It's driving me crazy .

I've got the air screw set so it does not cut when idle and does not try to rev .. Am I wrong .. HELP !!

Hi Jon . When I bought the bike the fuel screw on the carb was all the way tightened up . I've backed it off 3 and half turns now . The problem I am getting is the bike jerks forward when pottering around at low speeds when accelerating its fine . It's the low end revs when noticeable . It's driving me crazy .

I've got the air screw set so it does not cut when idle and does not try to rev .. Am I wrong .. HELP !!

Two things about the idle speed/fuel screw adjustment: Adjust the idle speed with the bike in gear and the clutch lever pulled back as you normally would ride (not back to the grip, but usually with one finger back to the knuckles). With the fuel screw, warm the engine up and in neutral, quickly blip the throttle from idle and adjust the fuel screw in/out to get the best response. It does not matter where the adjustment ends up, all engines are a little different under different weather conditions.

Did you make a "jetting map" when you had the carb apart? That's all the jet sizes and needle clip adjustment. If your jetting is far off, you will never be able to compensate for it. Never assume a bike you bought has correct jetting.

Jon

Thanks ... I'm going to strip it down in morning . I don't wanna run the risk of running over lean for too long .... Or my problems have just begun. Thanks

Thanks ... I'm going to strip it down in morning . I don't wanna run the risk of running over lean for too long .... Or my problems have just begun. Thanks

Chris,

post what your jetting is so we can see if the problem lies there.

Jon

Jon, it sure sounds like the idle circuit is plugged up. He has like 5 different posts going on.

Jon, it sure sounds like the idle circuit is plugged up. He has like 5 different posts going on.

Quite possibly. Another possibility is that the fuel screw (air screws usually don't do this due to their shape) has been bottomed out hard and formed a collar on the face of the taper and any accuracy in adjustment has been lost. This also happens a lot with tapered seat suspension adjusters (or they get snapped off).

Jon