Has anybody any good tips or tricks when it comes to putting the carb back in the bike after removal?, I can get it out reasonably ok but haven't been able to get it back in without removing the back of the bike.

Ive already taken out the spacer between carb and reed block which helps to get carb out but seems vertually impossible to get back in with air box in position.

Cheers

Oh you can get it in if you need to. But if you are working on the bike at home, it is well worth taking it all apart. Nothing will p*** you off more than ruining rubber made products.

Search for a post called "carburator cleaning" from 2010. I wrote a rather long winded description in there on the procedure.

Ah here's tha link

http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/29232-carburetor-cleaning/

I think that'll work.

Edited February 11, 201412 yr by dan williams

I have a length of stiff wire with a 90 degree bend at the end about 10mm long. The wire is used for relocating the air box rubber when installing the carb. Make sure the end has no sharp edges to damage the rubber. Can't recall how it worked on the both the Rev 3s we had but the carbs would have been off on a number of occasions and i don't remember any problems.

I have used it on loads of different carbed bikes.

I have a length of stiff wire with a 90 degree bend at the end about 10mm long. The wire is used for relocating the air box rubber when installing the carb. Make sure the end has no sharp edges to damage the rubber. Can't recall how it worked on the both the Rev 3s we had but the carbs would have been off on a number of occasions and i don't remember any problems.

I have used it on loads of different carbed bikes.

i put a 90 degree bend in a nasty old philips screwdriver to do this it works well

A hose removal tool is the easiest way to install the air boot rubber. Unlike Dan I always installed the boot before installing the carb to the inlet manifold and never removed the clamps. I only used this method if at an event. When at home I did it the long way. Removing the rear fender and brackets gives you the opportunity to check on everything else that could be needing attention.

Edited February 12, 201412 yr by lineaway

Thanks for the pointers I used a 4mm or so Allen key to do the described that works well coupled with taking off the jubilee clip from the air box side of the carb.

Cheers