February 5, 201511 yr Has anybody fitted a heavy duty sump guard to their beta evo? especially the one that is on ebay at the moment? looks very good but it does not have the bottom steel fixings like the original.
February 5, 201511 yr Is the original weak? The one on ebay looks well made Edited February 5, 201511 yr by suzuki250
February 5, 201511 yr Author The original one seems to bend quite easily especially at my level of riding. I do not go mad either, just over a short period of time mine is showing signs that it could do with being a lot stronger.
February 5, 201511 yr Author Great, thanks. that's me not buying one then. Carry on with what I have until I need a new standard one. Unless anyone can recommend a different one.
February 5, 201511 yr I fitted a csp guard to 2012 sherco it much better quality than standard and only couple of pounds different in price
February 5, 201511 yr Author Seams to be loads of holes in the CSP version that you would have thought would make it less strong but I guess its all about the strength of the Aluminium plate. I like the look of the pawls that can be fitted but I don't like the price for then. I think I would have to have some made specially for me rather than pay the additional £79.00 for them. Anybody fitted the CSP sump guard to a Beta?
February 5, 201511 yr stop smashing the sump guard off things thats not what its for, if your riding steps or roks try hitting the front wheel just before the top...
February 5, 201511 yr Whoever you are buying your sump guard off, make sure it is grade 7075 T6 or the hardest grade of Duraluminium. Duraluminium seems to be getting very hard to get hold of in UK. If anybody can press their own sump guard Talon may be able to supply the material as its the same stuff they use to make rear sprockets. You could also try Castle metals at Blackburn. You would have to anneal it before forming and harden it after. Hardening takes place naturally over about 2 weeks at room temperature but you can speed it up by warming it. You can get exact heat treatment details off the metal supplier. 7075 T6 is usefully harder than structural steel.
February 6, 201511 yr Duraluminium seems to be getting very hard to get hold of in UK. Duralumin is no longer available as its now 2000 Series al-cu alloys (and they corrode quickly un-treated) 7075 needs to be heated to 450c and then age hardened at 120c for 24h+ or it will stay soft But if he buys one stated as T6 then its already been done, so no point worrying Edited February 6, 201511 yr by suzuki250
February 9, 201511 yr #11 Regarding duraluminium. The firm I used to work for used to buy quite a bit of thick dural for machine parts and it got harder the longer we kept it. First few days it was soft, then it became quite a bit harder to machine than mild steel. Eventually 4mm plate became so hard / brittle it could not be bent without cracking and was quite hard to machine with HSS tooling. I know when I got some 1/4 inch off the same supplier for a Bulto sump guard conversion their instructions were to press brake it as soon as I got it. For trials use Dural corrosion never seemed to be a problem although definitely some of the aluminium "went" as it often took on a hint of copper colour yet it only contained about 4% copper. 7075 does seem to be supplied T6 which is OK to machine with insert tooling but I suspect it would crack if you tried to bend it to make a sump guard without annealing it first.
February 10, 201511 yr #11 Regarding duraluminium. The firm I used to work for used to buy quite a bit of thick dural for machine parts and it got harder the longer we kept it. First few days it was soft, then it became quite a bit harder to machine than mild steel. Eventually 4mm plate became so hard / brittle it could not be bent without cracking and was quite hard to machine with HSS tooling. I know when I got some 1/4 inch off the same supplier for a Bulto sump guard conversion their instructions were to press brake it as soon as I got it. For trials use Dural corrosion never seemed to be a problem although definitely some of the aluminium "went" as it often took on a hint of copper colour yet it only contained about 4% copper. 7075 does seem to be supplied T6 which is OK to machine with insert tooling but I suspect it would crack if you tried to bend it to make a sump guard without annealing it first. strange as we used a nice little oven that printed out graphs (e.g 450c then 24hours at 120c) It was also very handy for cooking pukka pies! Al-Cu hard to machine with HSS! (we mainly use HSS on our VMC) 2 days to go hard, did you buy your metal straight from the mills? We buy from aalco & various other suppliers and they hold stock for months! I think you are spending too much time on google! Edited February 10, 201511 yr by suzuki250
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