Has anyone ever had difficulty removing the bottom bearing from the yoke spindle?

Can it be pressed off?

I got a tool for it like this

 

http://images11.palcdn.com/hlr-system/WebPhotos/83/830/8309/8309619.jpg?_v=5a94e708-b43a-47fc-b9d2-56110847a5a6

Cut it with a dremmel or similar

Cut it with a dremmel or similar

 

Probably the best idea, but I’ve just done it with a 10 tonne press (just) they are tight!

I pressed the spindle through the bottom yoke. Yes they can make a worrying bang when they start moving.

Other trick that often works if you have a welder is to put a weld on the old bearing, and it should take of easily.

not the way i weld it wouldnt

The welding trick if for removing the bearing "cones" from the headstock. If you weld the bottom bearing it will shrink even tighter onto the stem.

I agree with Perce. Break or cut off the cage, then very carefully cut or grind through the bearing inner and stop just shy of hitting the stem. Use a cold chisel to crack the bearing and it will slide off the stem.

The correct way is to use a bearing separator as suggested by Crazybond but you will need extra long bolts to reach the top plate. You could also use the bearing separator and a hydraulic press. But most of use don't have access to those tools.

Chris.

Luckily mine was a not that tight. Id suggest a little heat.

 

If you weld the bottom bearing it will shrink even tighter onto the stem.

 

Heat expands

Edited June 20, 201511 yr by faussy

Yes, a little heat (such as a heat gun or propane torch) may work but watch the o-ring/dust seal and don't heat the aluminium stem as it will expand more than the steel bearing.

 

Heat expands

Yes, heat expands. However, I was questioning the idea from Crazybond regarding putting weld on the old bearing. Unless you are really lucky and/or really fast the bearing will shrink even tighter on to the stem. When you run a bead of weld the filler metal is molten (over 1500°C), as is part of the parent metal. This "as cast" metal is now the new original size. It immediately cools and shrinks (even before you complete the bead). That's why it works so well for removing the cones in the steering head but not so for the bearing on the stem.

But do whatever works for you.

Chris.