Just finished rebuilding my 24tes New seals, bearings,rebore piston and was advised to go for a new amal now I have two new problems, first she's an absolute pig to start tried flooding it with the tickler no choke then with choke then after loads of kicks she'll fire then on to fault 2 it will tick over for about 10 seconds then it will rev to the max and can't be stopped on the kill switch only using the gearbox and brakes, it's got new gaskets on the inlet and a new oring on the carb, so now I've dropped on the original amal monobloc and with one tickle fired up with two kicks it runs ok but it's really wooly of the bottom, does anyone have any ideas is it me or is this new carb a piece of ****

Don't pretend to know anything about Greeves; that said its still a 2 stroke.

With all  the good work you have done it would appear the new carb is a

piece; if as you say it's "wooly" off the bottom I suppose its rich/lean?

I am not a fan of Amals as I have no luck and no patience some folks have

good luck however.

 

Best of luck

Larry

My Montesa 315r did the same after a complete engine re-build. After 1 month of stripping and cleaning the carb it turned out the engine builder had left the crank seal out. New one in and was fine !

 

       Good luck with it buddy.

 

       Craig.

Thanks Larry and Craig I'll have another crack at it this weekend, its definitely got no problems with the seals I did them my self, I just can't work out why it runs ok with the old carb but goes nuts with the new un

Andy

Edited July 14, 201511 yr by hulmie

It sounds like maybe the new carb is not getting much fuel (float valve)?

Not familiar with tickler & a choke,  do you see fuel coming out of the weep hole when 

the tickler is held down? If so then cover the hole with your thumb to get fuel in the proper place.

My experience with Amal concentric's ; you must be careful when tightening the top as it 

is easy to warp things and then the slide hangs up.

Be careful with your fresh rebuild.

Larry

 

Sounds like the slide is either in backwards or not closing all the way. I would not start it again until this is resolved. Good Luck.

Thanks Larry and Craig I'll have another crack at it this weekend, its definitely got no problems with the seals I did them my self, I just can't work out why it runs ok with the old carb but goes nuts with the new un

Andy

 

This is a very good thing as youve pin pointed the problem.

Go through the new one piece by piece im sure its there somewhere!

Thanks liard i'll have look for that, took it to its first trial today and had a play with the air screw and found it would run great with the air screw all the way in, so does this mean I need a bigger pilot jet? I checked the plug after the first lap and it's a nice dark brown colour so mixture seems ok, Now may have found another fault, the first lap it ran great stopping and walking the sections but the rest of the laps it was getting really hot really quickly and was pinking/knocking under load so I'm thinking the timing may be too far advanced.... Any ideas anybody

Andy

That's what I was thinking i'll have a play with the timing for next time, have you got any ideas about the pilot jet? but other than that it was a blast to ride, it turns so much tighter than my beamish

Edited September 27, 201510 yr by hulmie

is it carb or timing?

By the look of the spark plug the mixture looks ok if anything slightly rich which is making me think timing as its getting hot really quick

Andy, if it runs better with the air screw all the way in, it very certainly needs a larger pilot jet, at present you have zero

adjustment left.

If the timing is correct; one would think lean mixture, go bigger on the pilot and this should help the whole mess. 

Good luck (don't fry the new build)

Larry

Thanks Larry, I'll take some extra tools with me next trial, I've just ordered a couple of larger jets so they should get me into a better adjustment range will try those first then have a look at the timing if the jets don't help while I'm there, it only takes 5mins to get at the timing plate

Just thought I'd update this post I've finally sorted the running problems. First fault (starting/reving)was the brand new carb which has been swapped for a new amal premier carb, the second fault was a combination of things (gettin hot/pinking), turns out these Villiers engines have a usefull feature of a drain plug in the crank cases, which had come loose on mine and was letting in a small amount of air making it run hot, so that got a new copper washer and some thread tape making it run a lot better but not perfect, whilst talking with a couple of riders whilst out practicing they mentioned about the squish with it having a rebuild, so that was checked and found to be very tight/narrow so I've used a copper head gasket I had off another bike and what a transformation the bike is a complete different animal, so thanks to those who posted ideas and maybe this might help others in the future because there's nothing worse than a thread with no update on whether a fault has been fixed, here's a pic of it now it's finished 

Edited March 25, 20179 yr by hulmie

I'm surprised that a small squish clearance was causing the problem as I've always worked on the assumption that squish clearance should be small. what did you start with? And what have you got now? The bike's looking very handsome, by the way.