Hello chaps,

 

I have bought my first bike, a 2000 290.

 

1) I have a crack on one of the welds by a foot pedal, is this fixable?

2) How do I mix fuel, I've heard is 80/1, how do I physically measure that out?

3) I have put it into gear and i'm too frightened to start it, how do I find neutral?

 

Many thanks!!

1.) probably yes let's see a picture.

 

2.) get a ratio right mixing cup or use 1.5 oz of oil per gallon.

 

3.) press the shifter all the way down then click it up to find N. Or just start it with clutch in.

 

Question for you my friend, are you just messing with me? Lol

Question for you my friend, are you just messing with me? Lol

 

Id say not, he says its his first bike.

 

1.Fixable most definitely, although with a chrome frame id rather have it tig'd or mig'd rather than welded with gas. Gas will burn more of your chrome.

 

2. As above 5000ml/80 is 62ml. Gonna need a measuring cylinder of some kind

 

3. You may need to rock the bike back and forward a little when trying to find neutral. With a bike the age of yours id advise against starting in gear using the clutch, your clutch will most likely drag when cold. First time you put it into gear with the engine going be ready for it to jump a little!!

Edited September 18, 201510 yr by faussy

Hi Jkd, getting mine into gear with a boot is near impossible, I always use my hand to get neutral. That's a good tip about not starting the bike in gear, a dragging clutch makes the bike even harder to turn over and fire up.

Enjoy Taff

Find a local welder with TIG. Best to grind off the chrome in the area. Tell him it is 4130 material. Nothing too special here. Prolly a tenner to fix. Silver paint toutch up.

The clutches often stick solid after sitting due to oil stiction. Find neutral by rocking as stated . All the way down then one click up.

Freeing up a stuck clutch prior to starting is ALLWAYS best!!! To do this place your butt(weight) on the bike and rock the bike as in before, clicking up to 5th gear with hand.

Pull in clutch and rock the bike heavily fore and aft until you feel the clutches break loose and allow the bike to roll, then roll it a bit.

Go back to neutral, start motor. Still be carefull and pointed in good direction prior to placing into gear.

This is an ALLWAYS procedure! Trust me!

Edited September 18, 201510 yr by copemech

Do as copmech says when you are about to click into gear, you could also push the front wheel into a wall and hold the front brake on then click into gear.

Yep, genuine questions!

 

Id say not, he says its his first bike.

 

1.Fixable most definitely, although with a chrome frame id rather have it tig'd or mig'd rather than welded with gas. Gas will burn more of your chrome.

 

2. As above 5000ml/80 is 62ml. Gonna need a measuring cylinder of some kind

 

3. You may need to rock the bike back and forward a little when trying to find neutral. With a bike the age of yours id advise against starting in gear using the clutch, your clutch will most likely drag when cold. First time you put it into gear with the engine going be ready for it to jump a little!!

 

Thankyou for all your replies.

 

Glad the foot rest can be welded, it looks ok but i'll take it somewhere

 

62mls, I notice the green tanks are 5l so i'll fill one up then use a measuring cup with 62ml of 2t oil then. Do I stir it? lol

 

I noticed when the guy first let the clutch out it lurched forward a bit and he said they were like that when cold. I'll try the techniques you guys say to find neutral - eek! 

I figured it would take off hehe. Love all your original stickers, that bike is mint! I'll try to get it in neutral over the weekend and also get some fuel in it.on inspection it seems to have been welded before as there is spray paint over the pedal.

Thank you everyone, got it out of gear by rocking it. Woohoo!

I had a 99 250, much like that apart from orange instead of blue & the top end.

If you can't free the clutch up by rocking the bike in gear a quick strip of the clutch to separate the plates may be in order which is quite easy & I've done it before starting a trial

It's possible to separate a few of the plates without stripping the clutch, you only need a few released for the clutch to free up easily

Yep, genuine questions!

 

 

 

I know JKD, I was just teasing bud. I have asked tons of newbie questions on here and everyone has been great in answering. Keep em coming.

I had a 2000 2.9 as well.

I beat the hell out of that bike.

 

Many repair welds on the frame.

was a good bike to ride.

 

(Tip:  do not drop it in a small creek and suck water into the engine............I did that, the silt and crap in the creek does bad things to the motor.  but on a positive note it ran for 2 years after that before the crank bearings finally gave up.  When I split the cases there were burn marks on the cases below the crank bearings, the rings had been blowing past pretty badly I would say.  and there was still a build up of silt in the intake manifold after the carb.  So basically what I am saying is, the bike did well for me and the abuse I gave it)

I can see its had a few repairs done, theres a weld under the rear mudguard too.

Another couple of questions;

What product do I use to oil the air filter? could I just use a bit of 2 stroke oil? Trying to keep costs down.

How does stuffing the exhaust work?

Thanks!

Edited September 24, 201510 yr by jkd

use air filter oil, it's the best thing to do, it's cheap and last forever i use the spray, may never run out of it once you get a can

JKD use the spray. Lasts awhile and makes things easier. As far as slinecer packing it's pretty easy. Maybe this link will help...

 

http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/39811-repacking-rear-silencer/

 

or this vid

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=26&v=VW49J1SedVM

 

 

Edited September 25, 201510 yr by fivebrick