Hi guys. We have a problem with the kill switch on our 4RT. It doesn't work. We have by-passed the switch and used a wire loop from the green wire to the black and white, no joy. We know the earth wire is good and we ran a fresh wire back to the ecu, still no joy....... Help!

Can I assume it worked fine in the past?

If so have you checked the pin where the harness connects to the ECU to make sure it isn't bent or corroded?

Any other detail about the bike that might help?  Like what was done to it last other than your changes to get it to work, such as oil change, maintenance work like oil change, etc.?

16 hours ago, patch said:

... We have by-passed the switch and used a wire loop from the green wire to the black and white, no joy. ...

The engine stop switch on the 4RT is normally open, and closed when pressed. If I'm reading your post correctly, you've replaced the switch with a jumper wire. That's the same as having the switch pushed full-time, so the engine will not start or run. Remove the jumper wire -- just leave the switch connectors unconnected -- and see what happens.

Thanks sportsawyer, I didn't catch that in his post, yes its normally open so if he has the jumper closing it, it wouldn't start. 

Thanks for the replies. The jump wire was used to try and stop the engine but it kept right on running. The switch worked just fine but after riding and washing several times it just stopped working, hence by-passing the switch with the jumper wire, which, as I said, still made no difference. The only way we can stop the motor is to put into gear with the rear brake on and dump the clutch to stall it.

I'm told they don't like that and can be awkward to start if stalled rather than switched off.  How are you finding it in that respect?

 

Check all earths coming from the ecu, there are three of them, all green wires. A kinder way to stop the engine until you find the fault, is to pull the red low tension wire off the coil.

Sorry, I misread your first post.

If the ground wire & connection is good, the B/W is about all that remains. You might try removing the ECU connector and make sure everything is clean and dry. Maybe check the B/W wire connection to the connector pin. While the connector is off, can check continuity from the B/W pin to the kill switch B/W bullet connector. Same from G pins 14 & 30 to kill switch G bullet connector. It seems like the only other thing would be that somehow the shutdown procedure in the ECU became corrupted.

Is the ECU your working with programmable?  If so you may want to try re-program it.  Read a post abou someone having some strange issues once and re-programming with the same map it fixed them.