I'm going to bite the bullet and change the friction and steel plates on my 1998 315r for the Apico aftermarket type (dimpled steels), to alleviate clutch drag.

Referring to the workshop manual shows a clutch holder/lock tool used to steady things whilst the centre nut is removed (and re-tightened). Is this really necessary, or can something else be safely used for the job? Apologies if this comes across as a dumb question - it'll be the first time I've got my hands on the 315's oily bits, so all help appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

 

Shouldn't need centre nut off just to change plates, just springs/ nuts

Thanks Guys... I think I was getting a little too lost in the detail of the workshop manual which shows complete clutch removal, requiring a locking jig. I can see now that's it's purely a matter of draining the oil, removing the clutch cover/springs/plates, then replacing everything with new.

Yeah, the ELF HTX 740 oil does seem to come highly recommended, but with some using other brands of light gear oil and others ATF, there's no definitive solution. Reading through the myriad information available on the 315r and it's clutch issue(s), tends to suggest that replacement of the stock steel clutch plates fitted to early MY 315's with aftermarket (dimpled) ones, or those from an appropriate MY CR250, in combination with using light gear oil and correct clutch adjustment, should do the trick.

Fingers-crossed.

Thanks again.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

elf or ATF (ATF is my preference)

Lay your bike on its side if  DOOOOOOOD MAAN didn't say so.

 

Apologies got a 4rt keep forgetting about that fuel tap thing and carb breather pipes and floats levels

 

Thanks again for the advice, guys.

I went for the Apico dimpled steel plates and a set of corresponding friction plates (all fibre, no paper), from BVM  - amazing customer service there - with Putoline Light Gear Oil and the job's a good 'un. Lovely, progressive action and none of the issues with the stock set-up.