Hi guys new here so hope this is posted in he correct place. I have a 2010 gas gas txt pro. Not the usual drag issue lol quite the opposite. The point I which the clutch engages / bites is literally as I am about to release the leaver. I have put a new clutch in but this did not fix it    . I measured the clutch pack and it was 9.8mm bang on before it went in. But when I check the finger height it measures 14.8mm in which should be at 17.5 here or there ? I'm sure this is why it bites right when all pressure is about to be released on the master cylinder. Obviously I have tried adjusting it many of times but doesn't matter how it's adjusted as you can't change the point in which the engagement happens in the travel of the master cylinder travel? Please help it's baffling me? 

I'm confused as to what you mean. Are you saying as soon as the lever moves a little twords the handlebar the clutch stops drive to the rear wheel ?

Yeah basically. And still the same with new clutch. has plenty of free play at the lever, but the plunger on the master cylinder hits the lever instead of the adjuster, as the adjuster is wound so far out to even have a bite any where near the bars. (Pic attached) The clutch finger height is adjusted by the clutch pack thickness and the thickness is bang on but the finger height is 2.9mm off. It's reading 14.6mm instead of 17.5mm I'm sure this is the problem but can't see how if one measurement is in the other can be out is there something silly I'm missing? 

Edited June 2, 20179 yr by jimbo_edwardo

My clutch was slipping quite badly and we swapped it out while riding at TTC.

I ran into a similar issue.

We measured the pack and it was pretty close to center of the spec.

Reassembled and the finger height was off.............. a lot.

So take apart, and adjust with different thickness steel plates, check the finger height.

Take apart and adjust with some old friction plates with some new friction plates, check finger height.

Basically did this a bunch of times until the finger height was correct.  Never checked the pack thickness after the first time.  Assembled into bike and all works like it should.  Good lever pull and no more slipping clutch.

 

Factor in tolerances in manufacturing and normal use wear on the clutch basket and that is why the clutch pack thickness can be correct but the finger height is off.  and we are talking mm here, don't take much to move it out/in a mm or two.

The measurements are really really important. During the years I found out that it makes so much difference. The fingerhight is the crucial part. So make sure you get the pack size correct first, than adjust until fingerhight is correct, and it will be spot on.

 

Edited June 5, 20179 yr by crazybond700

Sure you have the correct lever? Looking at your pic it is either wrong or you have the adjuster on the mc cranked all the way in.

Hi zippy yeah I think you right cheers I need some new plates to adjust the finger hight for now I have ground a small amount off the lever by the master cyl plunger to give me more adjustment it's still not right but was good enough for the resent trials ? 

Lineaway yeah it's the correct lever ajp standerd but had the adjustment pin all the way out to get some sort of bite 

Sorry saw this only now. You get yourself a good measuring tool (caliper) and use the part underneath to rest on the fingers, and let the 'n point sit on the edge of the clutch basket. Should be around 17.5mm +-1 with a pack just below 10mm around 9.5 or 9.7ish. The fingerhight is the measure but pack thickness helps to get around the right fingerhight.