Has anyone of you lads done this I'm looking to do it to my factory beta evo 250 but wanted to see if any have and if it does Help I've been trying to get a proper review but I've not seen many! It's the light pull I'm looking for so that my arms don't pump like a ballon after half an hour 

Yes I did it on my Sherco and it made the clutch lever lighter.

Taff

 That`s like the poor mans Rekluse. Yes it will be lighter and yes your clutch will slip. Find a good parts guy and get 6 lighter springs. What I did was take Gas Gas 160 springs and cut them down to proper length. I did this for two reasons. I had a gas gas engine laying on the floor and last Christmas holiday I cut off the tendon in half of my clutch finger. 

sure I've seen an article that shows how to lighten a Beta clutch by reversing the washers either side of the springs or something like that there were about 6 different combinations...will try to find the article. By the way my evo clutch is excellent and very light, so maybe its set up differently (its a 200)

 

http://www.betausa.com/sites/default/files/pdf/STT-2012-3-Evo%20300%20clutch%20set%20up.pdf  its on here try this link

The Evo Factory models -at least my son's 2011 Factory 300, had special red aluminium washers to tension the clutch springs.

These washers are top hat shaped, a larger diameter brim and a smaller diameter body,  By turning them over you can adjust the tension of the clutch springs. Take one off and have a look if you have genuine parts.

If the flat brim is towards the spring (with the smaller diameter section visible next to the bolt head) you get maximum tension. If the smaller diameter goes inside the spring, it does not compress the spring so much so you get minimum tension.

See photograph attached, zoom in and you can see that the top hat has the brim towards the spring for maximum tension on my son's 300. 

It is easy to try them all (or alternate ones) in the other position and see the results.

I think that style of washer is only fitted on a 300 factory, but you can swap out the two thicker friction plates on all bikes.

Just checked my records and the step on the top hat washer mentioned earlier is 1.5mm, so having the flat to the outside reduces the spring pressure by 1.5mm from having the flat face next to the spring.

A standard steel washer is 6mm clearance x 12 mm od x 1mm thick. The washer has to be able to fit inside the spring diameter, so must be 13mm outside diameter or less.

If your bike only has plain flat washers to tension the springs it's easy to try a 1mm  washer under each of the pressure washers and see how that feels.

 For my damaged finger that was not enough. You can do two, but 3 puts the bolt out enough to hit the clutch cover.

When I had a 2014 250 Beta Evo I removed two springs from the clutch.  Made it much lighter.  Didn't slip.

I made this mod on my Rev3 which worked really well. It gives 3mm preload but the bolts need to be countersunk or they would hit the cover as mentioned above. There are several other interesting versions/ideas described earlier in the thread using small washers etc. that you might be able to try, though probably only up to about 2mm spacer. My clutch is noticeably lighter and I haven't had any slipping - although I am very much a "wobbler" and haven't needed to fly up any walls yet! Good luck. 

I removed tow springs on a Rev3.  The clutch pull was lighter but I eventually noticed slipping in high gears.

Cut a broomstick to the length of your handlebars. Drill a hole thru the middle. Put a 3' rope thru the hole. Attach a 3 pound weight to the end of the rope. Now role it up and down 10 times. As you get stronger add more weight. Do it 3 times a week. No more arm pump. (Do deep knee squats on a wobble board at the same time.)

1 hour ago, carlos said:

 (Do deep knee squats on a wobble board at the same time.)

Aye, and if you keep the other end of the broom you can sweep the floor at the same time.