Was getting excited when I heard the tyres were getting put on my GG today (2007 250 TXT Pro) now that the exhaust has been fixed.... they'd found an odd squeaking noise when kick starting the bike, thought maybe cylinder.... was running fine before it went in though.  Later turned out to be the attached....

New rear rim required, pretty gubbed.... explains the slow puncture! Got new Michelin tyre but new rim required.... checked the parts manual and its available as rim and rim tape seperately.

Any recommendations apart from get new spares pronto?  Suppliers who ship overseas? Any other suggestions?  Can you use tyre foam? (carried it in the cars for years but never actually used it)

 

Hmm, obviously some rot there but not sure from the picture exactly how extensive.

? feasibility of pulling off the rim tape, smoothing off the surface of the rim, removing tubeless valve, recovering with new tape and running an inner tube. I'm tight, so would look at this possibility first.

Edited September 26, 20178 yr by cleanorbust

Was thinking similar but also involving a lashing of Belzona....

Anyone else done this and it worked ok?

I think it would be well worth a shot. Could easily fill the damage in the rim and it wouldn't have to be airtight. 

And every time I rode the bike I'd be mentally celebrating saving the cost of a new rim.

Oni nou describes with precision how to restore the rim for tubeless use. Personally I'd just go down the tubed route. I've used a tube in tubeless rear tyre for years with no bother and, as my name isn't Dabill, can't tell the difference.

I too had a difficult time understanding what I was seeing in the photo. If the rim is cracked why not just weld the crack (after cleaning and prepping the surface)? I'm not a welder/metallurgist so I'm asking just to learn.

Dale

38 minutes ago, d2w said:

I too had a difficult time understanding what I was seeing in the photo. If the rim is cracked why not just weld the crack (after cleaning and prepping the surface)? I'm not a welder/metallurgist so I'm asking just to learn.

Dale

I would need a wider view to fully assess it.... but to me it looks like it's quite brittle in places where it's fractured.... years of water, crud and latterly some salty water from playing on the marsh near home.... add some work hardening from 10yrs of cyclic loading, countless smacks to yield it a bit.... you've got a component with a nice mixture of evironmental and stress driven degradation that won't be fit for welding.... will be missing a fair bit of material once you've gouged all that out with a burr. Too thin to butter much, real risk of distorting the rim. 

Flexible epoxy a much better idea.... either for tube or tubeless use. 

Not a welder/metallurgist either but worked hand in hand with them as an engineer for many years fixing broken process plant stuff.... don't let them kid you on its hard, neither of them have to do the sums that engineers do to justify what they do! ?

Thanks guys.... some good advice. ??

Well after some time including a lengthy wait for a new rim.... got the bike back with new rear rim (inc respoke, new rim tape) and new tyres front and back.... took it for a quick run last week.

Got a silly question.... is it normal of these bikes (tubeless rear trials rims) to go flat from one weekend to the other (5psi was 0psi today) because of the sealing arrangements (rim tape over spoke ends)?  Or should I be checking it out / taking it back to the shop?