January 17, 20188 yr Looking for tips and tricks for 2010-2015 Ossa TR’s. I just bought a 2015 TR250I and am in the process of going through it, replacing worn out parts. Thanks to a local parts supplier, so far it’s going pretty good. Biggest issue I’ve ran into was the silencer had a broken bolt stuck in the aluminum and a broken bracket on top for a clip type nut.
January 17, 20188 yr Things to keep an eye on, kickstart bolt top and bottom check after every trial. Keep spraying the suspension linkage with light oil/chainlube seems to keep it right as long as you always do it. Tape up the tank skid plate where it meets to keep mud away from the wiring in there. Change transmission oil regularly the lowest bolt on the clutch casing should be removed to get the last of it out. Might be an idea to drain the tank I did mine and a lot of debris came out didn't think it would do the pump any good this involves turning the bike upside down which is a pain. I run fully synthetic at 120.1 seems really happy at that . That's about all I can think of anything technical see a dealer. Cheers
January 17, 20188 yr Author On the broken lower right side exhaust bolt I was thinking I might want to increase the size from 5mm to 6mm. This would help prevent another broken bolt and allow me just to drill and tap the exsisting oversized hole. Anyone else had issues with loose/ broken silencers?
January 17, 20188 yr PS while I mind the back wheel lifts up and out for removal taking the caliper with it, To replace it fit the caliper on the disc then slide the whole lot down and forward..It's a bit odd if you've not done it before
January 17, 20188 yr 2 hours ago, ossatr250i said: On the broken lower right side exhaust bolt I was thinking I might want to increase the size from 5mm to 6mm. This would help prevent another broken bolt and allow me just to drill and tap the exsisting oversized hole. Anyone else had issues with loose/ broken silencers? Mine had to have about 4 new welds done last year.I think it was from the missing lower right bolt putting too much stress on the mounting bracket.It's been fine since then.
January 17, 20188 yr buy one of these: https://bvm-moto.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=2061 The new type filters are easy to remove but this thing is even easier and keeps the actual filter spotless
January 17, 20188 yr I second that comment about watching the kickstart bolts. I locktite mine and they seem to stay relatively well. But they still tend to come loose. I’ve broken the linkage, so regular maintenance/inspection is a good idea I think. I’m running a Ti setup with zerk fittings now. One thing I wish they did was run regular bearings with seals and zerks. But probably for most trial uses the factory setup is fine (I ride trails most of the time). I use a filter/funnel for all my fuel. Changing the fuel filter is a pain (the engine has to come out)- and while it doesn’t need to happen very often, I’d like to keep it to a minimum. The filter and fuel pump are common parts. I’ve found about every 100 hours mine have liked to have the TPS reset. Easy if you have the cable and software. I wish BTWICE was still selling them. (Factory ones were ludicrously expensive) I also change gearbox oil often, it also lubes the main bearings. I loosen all the clutch bolts and pop the cover out a bit to drain the last- it seems to work well for me that way. I also measure how much I get out to make sure I get it all. I fit a ‘Super Easy Start’ that I came up with on both of mine. It is good for troubleshooting as well as making it really easy to start. Mine likes a very healthy kick, make sure to take slack out of kickstart mechanism first (like all bikes really) Mine have been really good for me. I have almost 400 hours on my Explorer, although I recently got a Beta 4T to use a bunch of the time to keep from getting quite so many hours on the OSSA. If they were still making them I probably wouldn’t have done that. have fun with it! Mark
January 17, 20188 yr Author I Like that air filter idea, my air box is ugly right now, I guess I just have to be real careful as I clean it...... Edited January 17, 20188 yr by ossatr250i Double post.
January 17, 20188 yr Author Thank you to everyone!! Funny, I was just trying to remove the rear wheel this morning.....so if I understand you right I need to remove the rotor bolts In order to remove the caliper and bracket assembly....I’m also assuming you must disconnect the brake hose to get the wheel out?
January 17, 20188 yr +1 for the Jitsie pre-filter.To remove the rear wheel,remove the axle and lift the wheel up a few inches.The caliper stays on the brake line and the rotor stays on the hub.A wee bit tricky,but you'll figure it out once you do it right.
January 17, 20188 yr No, do not disconnect the rotor bolts, and certainly not the brake hose. We always remove the disc plastic protector when removing the rear wheel, makes it easy to install. As you remove the wheel spindle/axle, hold the wheel with your right hand, unhook the chain over the sprocket and let it hang over the left side of the swinging arm, then swap hands, so now holding the wheel with your left hand with the wheel slightly higher than the axle holes, you can now remove the caliper from the top of the disc by gently wiggling it so it doesn't catch on the rotor bolts - you'll soon see what the guys mean, don't stretch the brake hose just be carefull there. With that M5 silencer bolt, once you have removed the broken piece there is enough aluminium around that area for the hole to take an M6 thread, just be carefull not to go too deep, measure the depth of the hole when you get the broken piece out - use a new drill bit for this, unless it is easily unscrewed. Bye, Peter B.
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