Can anyone tell me the correct torque setting for the cylinder head bolts on a 2012 Beta 80 Evo, I need to replace the washers as there is a slight dampness coming through them. 

Thanks in advance 

In the absence of a reply from someone with the manufacturers torque settings for your cylinder head, try this but at your own risk. 

Presumably as you state, you want to just replace the washers under each cylinder head bolt. My thoughts are that you should remove the head and inspect the cyliner head sealing area and the cylinder block, you are looking for small areas of corrosion and tell tale signs of combustion gas pressure leakage. There will possibly be a head gasket or ‘O’ ring gasket made from either a composite material or copper, this will need to be replaced. It is doubtful that the head bolt washers need replacing, but if you want to it can only be for the better. Clean everthing thoroughly and you will need to check for distortion, I suggest you look on Goggle for images of this procedure, you will need a good straight edge and feelerblades for this check also.

When you undo the bolts, slacken them a little at a time, eg a quarter of a turn each. Looking down on the cylinder head bolts imagine a clock face, choose one of the bolts as 12 o’clock and slacken that one a quarter turn, next 6 O’clock and so on until all the bolts are slakened a quarter of a turn, now repeat the process....this is to reduce the chances of causing distortion. Do this with the engine cold.

When you have decided upon the repair needed, refit the head with the new parts and finger tighten the cylinder head bolts only ....about as tight as you would screw on the top of a sauce bottle. Using a correct torque wrench set to 5 ftlbs (6.7nm)tighten each bolt using the same process for undoing. Thats stage one, now set the torque wrench to 10ftlbs (13.5nm) repeat the tightening process, now set the torque wrench to 15ftlbs (20.7nm) repeat. So now you have tightened the head down to what I beleive will be correct for your engine, but I repeat this is purely at your own risk, I accept no responsibility should you break something or the figures are incorrect.

There will most likely be someone that will add useful information or actually know the manufacturers specified settings. There maybe someone with the experience where they will not use a torque wrench but resort to ‘feel’ tightening, which is fine if done correctly.

Hope this helps you, your next job will be to re-charge the cooling system. This should be done with distilled water and a good quality anti freeze, you must use anti freeze as this raises the boiling point of water and helps prevent overheating. Run engine to bleed out air, a good way is to raise the front of the bike up at least 3 feet so that the filler is at the highest point and the air should find its way to the top and escape. ??

Thanks, I will give it a go ?

1 hour ago, ObanL200 said:

Thanks, I will give it a go ?

Hope you have success?