I bought a 1998 TX 320 as donor bike for an electric conversion. Problem is it's in parts and I'm not the one disassembled it (long story). Because I'm doing an EV conversion there are a lot of parts I don't need, and many that I do. I don't have any prior experience with Trials bikes at all, so it's all new.

From the previous owner I was given reprint of the factor parts/schematic from Jim Snell / Rising Sun Imports, but it being in Spanish and diagrams not super helpful in seeing exactly what bolt is what or how parts fit together, wondering if I can get some pointers on how to assemble this bike back into a roller.

The near term goal is to get the swing arm,/rear wheel motor (without top end) and bash plate in. Basically, enough that it can roll/brake/clutch in under its own doing, but it doesn't need to be propelled by the motor so I can start sizing things up for a battery pack and motor/electronics install.

I know I'm missing a handlebar, exhaust, fuel tank, generator motor cover, etc.

I've attached pictures of what I have. If you have  TX or similar model I could use pictures of the swing arm axle area on both sides, the suspension linkages top/bottom, motor mounting points/brackets/hardware, from there I should be able to get the remainder from the diagrams and trial/error. Scribbling/circling my photos if you can ID a specific related part works as well.

It's a mess, but thanks for the help!

 

Space for attachments is limited here, so I sent some pics and the parts book directly to you.  Did you enjoy building models as a kid?

18 minutes ago, konrad said:

Space for attachments is limited here, so I sent some pics and the parts book directly to you.  Did you enjoy building models as a kid?

I was more a fan of Legos and kludging together my own things. Consequently, I'm a square peg in a round hole kind of guy.

A fun-looking project.  Consider that you may have parts from more than one bike there; it appears that you have four or five brake slave cylinders, and you'll only need two. 

Edited March 5, 20197 yr by d2w

8 hours ago, d2w said:

A fun-looking project.  Consider that you may have parts from more than one bike there; it appears that you have four or five brake slave cylinders, and you'll only need two. 

A parts bin bike if there ever was one!

You mean I can't attach them all and get super mega extra stopping? ?

Have the bike into almost a roller. Rear suspension mostly sorted.

Some things I'm not clear on:

• Found that I'm missing the swingarm axle (not the rear wheel axle). Does anyone know the material the axle is made out of from factory? Assume it's aluminum. If so I can probably make one myself.  Further, there seems to be a bit of space between pivot area of the swingarm and the inside of the frame. However, there doesn't appear to be any washers/spacers in this area in the factory parts list. Am I supposed to torque this down tight enough to close the gap?
• Snail Cams/chain adjusters, I'm missing them. The aftermarket ones seem to have ridges on them that don't match the cuts in the cam block on the swing arm, does it matter?
• The rear brake caliper doesn't seem like it has a bleed screw? How does one bleed the brakes on these?

Pending:

• Finish the getting the motor/clutch back together and installed in frame.
• Get the handlebar (missing) sorted and clutch/brake levers.
• All the EV parts =D

Pretty sure the s/arm axle was an alloy steel, but you could likely use a 6000 series aluminium alloy, check the tensile strength first. There would have been a bush inside the needle rollers of the s/arm, either end, that protrudes out of the bearing area of the s/arm which takes up the gap that you mentioned. Doesn't really matter about the ridges on the snail cams. The older brake callipers had a bleed nipple threaded into the top of the hex head of the banjo bolt, if there is not one there you could modify a bolt to suit. Bye, Peter B.

4 minutes ago, peterb said:

Pretty sure the s/arm axle was an alloy steel, but you could likely use a 6000 series aluminium alloy, check the tensile strength first. There would have been a bush inside the needle rollers of the s/arm, either end, that protrudes out of the bearing area of the s/arm which takes up the gap that you mentioned. Doesn't really matter about the ridges on the snail cams. The older brake callipers had a bleed nipple threaded into the top of the hex head of the banjo bolt, if there is not one there you could modify a bolt to suit. Bye, Peter B.

Thanks! I ended up getting a used axle from eBay across the pond.

I think I see how to bleed the rear brake. 

The bushes that go into the swing arm needle bearings are present. However, they narrow the gap between the swingarm bearing yokes so that they line up for the motor mount point. This seems to agree with the caliper measurements. 

Is the swingarm centered on the axle perhaps by the motor vs the frame? If this is the case then the gap between the swingarm and the frame makes sense. I think this makes sense there's a lower mount point that centers the motor to the frame. The parts diagram implied the bushes are inserted from the inside towards out. 

Yes, you are correct re your final paragraph, unsure about the correct way round for the bushes, try it both ways. Bye, Peter B.

Waiting for a swing arm axle, snail cams.

Bar is definitely not a trials bar, some cheap eBay bars to start getting things sorted. 

Controls are cheapo eBay units, the Piston size is larger than the AJPs, hopefully doesn't ruin clutch and brake feel too much. They're useful as they have integrated micro switches on the clutch and brake. Also, they look cool and the build quality for the dollar is excellent. 

Still deciding on electronics.