TXT PRO 200 on an '06. On the stand without the engine running I can get all gears up & down the box if I rock the rear wheel forwards &  back and change by hand. The gear lever does not spring back to a neutral position tho it has to be returned by hand. That is to say if i put it up to 2nd the lever stays up.

While riding the bike I can shift up from 1st to 2nd sometimes 3rd but try going down the box I've no idea what gear im in. It wont 'snick' into gear either up or down. 

I've bled the clutch, there's no drag and there's a bit of free play at the lever end so I'm pretty sure that is ok. New gearbox oil in.

I've watched Jim Snell's video about adjusting the shifting shaft mechanism. He suggests that it will need adjusting if I don't get the audible click sound but I DO get the click both in 1st & 2nd gear. If it's this I'm happy to give it a go but could it be anything else?

Any help would be massively appreciated. Thanks

 First give the bike a good clean, chances are you are going to split the cases. The video of adjusting the cam on the  spring is exactly where to go next. If you are lucky the top hat just sheared the little tab in the end of the shift shaft. Usually it ends up being a new shift shaft. Lucky you.

Does the clutch basket come out in one go or do I have to disassemble it? I know i have to remove it to get to the cam mechanism. Do I need to lock the trans in gear before undoing anything?

I've been in there today but didn't fancy a strip down to get to the top hat. 

Yes you have to take the clutch apart to get to the center bolt that holds it on. After the bolt is removed it just comes straight out, sometimes not easily.

Cheers for the quick reply. I'll strip it tomorrow and take a look at the top hat. I can't get parts til Tuesday anyway now with it being Easter the shops are shut.

Are the screws on the bevel plate Torx screws?

maybe 12 point 7mm socket.

Just to clarify... why does the clutch need to be stripped down? If I can get the special bolt out of the middle won't the whole lot just slide off? Sorry to be a PITA!

Looks like it's another shallow Torx head screw & bush with a dab of loctite on to secure it.... and not completely necessary to hold everything in place from other posts I've read?

 Just to clarify it is not a torx and you should strip it down to make it easier and to clean the crap that is in the spring. By the way the center bolt should be hollow. I would not use loctite.

top hat spring.

if its just thst youre lucky

did you drop the bike or hit gear lever

No I bought it like that. Stupidly I only had the bike started and tick over on the drive. I've been replacing lower shock linkages, brake pads & fluids, air filter, exhaust wadding etc before riding it so it's been a month since I bought it. Rode it for the 1st time when this issue arose.

Just in middle of removing clutch- off to buy a 12 point 7mm socket.... grrrrr! Got loads of single hex no doubles. 

SORTED THANKS FOR THE HELP.

Stripped the clutch out to get to the top hat. I had to drill the head off the M5 retaining screw which holds the basket on as this had been butchered and rounded off. I suspect someone had tried to remove the basket before, possibly on a mission to check the top hat because the previous owner told me he had difficulty getting neutral.

When the top hat was revealed I could see that the little square section pin in the top had had sheared  just as others had suggested it might. What a relief. It is after all a shear pin so it had done the job it was designed for.

 

Edited April 26, 20197 yr by yellabell

good work!

Remember the replacement center bolt has to be the hollow one from gas gas as this is a vent.

Yes - ordered the top hat and spring as a unit, a new m5 hollow screw and 2x clutch basket needle roller bearings. Don't know if they needed doing but might as well for the few quid they cost. Happy days! 

Here's a little clip of what the sheared square section pin looks like when trying to find a gear