Hope this 2 part epoxy resin holds, seems strong enough and was easy enough to smooth down with the dremel ?

 sorry ,I dont think so...., look around..!!

Excuse the pun sparkieb, but thats quite a crack you have there! Studying your photo there appears to be other cracks in the casing. I don’t know what Montesa were thinking about when it came to the kickstart stop, relying on the rider to kick only as far as the footrest seems farcical to me. My 348 has a chunk missing but without the other cracks. If you get the case welded its only going to get mullered again the next time you use the kicker in anger....say in a section or someone else does the kicking. I have opted to use a Polyester sealant that a) will keep water out if wading b) will flex and potentially stay in place or if it falls into the magneto then it shouldn’t do harm if any. My 348 has modded footrests S3 pegs, lowered and back mounting plates so the footrest no longer acts as a kicker stop. I’m considering a simple drop down bar fitted in the original footrest mount hole...we’ll see?

I used neutral cure silicone rubber sealant which has worked pretty well for about 15 years so far

Yes i have the other cracks to fill yet but the big chunk was missing and long gone (1976 - 348), im planning to hopefully use the footrest/stop method when its finally done ?

I've used J-B Weld, a two part epoxy, with good success on a few 348 cases. There is no problem with the design and when installed correctly the kick start lever will travel safely past the foot peg to the straight down position. Correct installation is to be sure the kick start shaft is rotated fully clockwise and then install the kick start lever at the one o'clock position. When starting, the lever will engage around 11 o'clock and will safely rotate to the  6 o'clock position.

Seconded!

As previously, ensuring the shaft is rotated FULLY clockwise before installing the kick starter (at the five-past-the-hour position) is crucial.

I followed other advice on TC relating to fitting a decompression valve (Venhill do a nice one), which makes the whole starting procedure easier and less brutal... I have a 247.

?

On 9/12/2019 at 12:33 PM, nh014 said:

I've used J-B Weld, a two part epoxy, with good success on a few 348 cases. There is no problem with the design and when installed correctly the kick start lever will travel safely past the foot peg to the straight down position. Correct installation is to be sure the kick start shaft is rotated fully clockwise and then install the kick start lever at the one o'clock position. When starting, the lever will engage around 11 o'clock and will safely rotate to the  6 o'clock position.

Yep, agree entirely with the correct positioning of the kickstart lever. Usually at the same angle as the bolt on frame tube or slightly closer to 12 o'clock doesnt look as neat though. Except when you have a really tall and strong bloke kicking like mad with the bike leaned well over, this enables the kickstart to be forced further round and knocking ‘seven bells’ out of the crankcase! 

On 9/12/2019 at 4:30 AM, section swept said:

 My 348 has modded footrests S3 pegs, lowered and back mounting plates so the footrest no longer acts as a kicker stop. I’m considering a simple drop down bar fitted in the original footrest mount hole...we’ll see?

Not to derail this thread, but do you have pics of your footrest mods?  I'd love to upgrade my MRR. 

56 minutes ago, brewtus said:

Not to derail this thread, but do you have pics of your footrest mods?  I'd love to upgrade my MRR. 

There you are modded rests etc?

Please ignore rusty chain this is before refurb.

Edited September 19, 20196 yr by section swept
Added wordage.

Wow, you weren't kidding about modded!!  Thanks, this gives me ideas.  

4 hours ago, brewtus said:

Wow, you weren't kidding about modded!!  Thanks, this gives me ideas.  

Yes they are heavily modded, those extension plates are 7 mm thick....TIG or stick weld needed if you use similar. They do bend as well so I use a tool to lever them back into position....its a weight thing?. You will notice that the original footrest stubs are retained so grinding off the welds means I can return the bike to standard quite easily.

Because of the rear brake pedal location you can get away with the original brake cable, the adjuster just has to be wound in further. The brake pedal stop bolt is too long ( just in case any eagle eyed viewer comments) its a new bolt and it will be shortened...another weight thing. Also the airbox is missing....I’m making a replacement....read made a replacement.?

Edited September 19, 20196 yr by section swept
Added material

14 hours ago, section swept said:

Yes they are heavily modded, those extension plates are 7 mm thick....TIG or stick weld needed if you use similar. They do bend as well so I use a tool to lever them back into position....its a weight thing?. You will notice that the original footrest stubs are retained so grinding off the welds means I can return the bike to standard quite easily.

Because of the rear brake pedal location you can get away with the original brake cable, the adjuster just has to be wound in further. The brake pedal stop bolt is too long ( just in case any eagle eyed viewer comments) its a new bolt and it will be shortened...another weight thing. Also the airbox is missing....I’m making a replacement....read made a replacement.?

Welding equipment is no problem, overthinking the relocation mods were.  I was moving more towards removing those huge OE footpeg lugs and fabbing frame plates for the peg mounts, but relocating the brake pedal cleanly had me a tad stumped.  Your solution has me thinking in another direction, and I think it will be a lot cleaner and MUCH less involved than my original idea.  Thanks for the pics and the descriptions! 

As for now, it's loaded in the trailer alongside the 4RT for some Trials fun in Texas this weekend. 

Hijack over.  Now back to our regularly scheduled programming....