The other day while out riding, I noticed that my 2003 Rev 3 250 was loosing a tiny amount of coolant from the joint between the pump and the inner clutch housing. When I stripped the pump casting off, I found that the inner surface of the clutch housing was pitted and corroding away in areas. In one area towards the front of the bike, the housing had corroded so much that the inner lip of the undercut for the O-ring was gone and hence the leak. I made and fitted a rubber gasket to replace the O-ring and re-fitted the pump housing, thinking this would cure the leak. When I removed the cap from the radiator, I noticed that the inner clutch housing itself had sprung a leak via a tiny pin-prick hole. I ordered a new clutch housing from JLI, but I'm wondering why the metal has corroded so badly.

The coolant I use is standard anti-freeze from the local car accessories shop, diluted as per instructions.

Has anyone else had a similar issue? Is there a special type of anti-freeze I should be using. I'm considering painting the inside of the new housing with gearbox enamel as an extra precaution.

I'd be glad for any advice/opinions etc.

I have replaced 3 housings on 03 REVs. All were waranteed. Have heard a few different theories but the one thing I noticed was these bikes had green antifreeze from the automotive world in them. That is not what the manufacture puts in them. I only run a product called engine ice in mine. Something about the high silica base in the automotive antifreeze reacts with the Magnesium case.

I may be completly off on this also. Just relating my experience.

Aaron

Thanks for the feedback fellas. I've had the bike from new and so know it's history. I've used nothing but anti-freeze/tap water mixed to the correct ratio, so I don't think there's anything wrong there.

I seem to recall being told that Renault are particular about the anti-freeze they use due to the possibility of a reaction with the cylinder head material, but I don't how true it is.

If you hadn't got a new housing ..

Araldite is an amazing cure all for leaky engines build it up in thin layers and it works a treat it sets rock hard can be moulded into shapes doesnt mind engine temperatures and lasts and lasts used it on alloy, cast iron and bronze never been let down.

Dunno if this discussion from back in '04 might help. Sounds like the exact same problem you're having.

Haven't seen clarkp on these forums for a while... you still there mate?

I've now fitted the new housing and opted for the red organic anti-freeze which claims to be good for 5 years as opposed to 2years with the normal stuff. Judging by the response, it would appear that 2003 was a bad year for Beta castings. Mine hadn't gone as bad as Clark p's but a leak is a leak. Incidently, I also had problems with a dodgy stator plate which had to be refurbished.

The trouble with tap water is it all different. Specific gravity, menials etc. my well water might be just fine, but the city

After spaeking to the factory .. the issue with magnesium is you are not supposed to use antifreeze with any water whatso ever .. we are now using and as a result distributing ELF Organic Coolant..

So I really ought to be using straight antifreeze!

Is that the beta factory you spoke to?

Bob