July 21, 20251 yr Anyone still alive on here that has any information on the clutch assembly? *******o clutch will not disingage ( stuck in gear) all gears selectable... Have soaked the basket in petrol and doesn't seem to be sticking.. really need an exploded diagram as I feel a crucial part maybe missing.. engine was rebuilt by someone else.. even the tiniest information would be great 👍
July 22, 20251 yr When you pull the clutch lever in I assume you can feel the mechanism trying to activate the clutch? Also I assume you have tried riding it in a high gear with the clutch pulled in while accelerating?
July 22, 20251 yr Author 14 hours ago, kurtas said: When you pull the clutch lever in I assume you can feel the mechanism trying to activate the clutch? Also I assume you have tried riding it in a high gear with the clutch pulled in while accelerating? I can feel the mechanism trying to activate the clutch 👍 I actually can't start And change up to a high gear thank you for your help
July 22, 20251 yr Author 8 hours ago, majesty said: Cota 200.pdf 1.56 MB · 28 downloads Thank you so much for the PDF 👍
July 22, 20251 yr Hi just replied to your previous post with a bit of general information before I saw this one. The parts book is what I had originally, don’t think there’s much else out there. You can see the chain tubes on there and the tank/seat bulges, but that book shows a full width hub which I think were the earlier models. The clutch mechanism was a bit suspect in that the little pawl 2863.106 was made of poor material and its square hole wasn’t a very accurate fit on the bottom of the operating lever shaft 3863.081. Both the square on the shaft and the hole seemed to wear easily along with the finger end of the pawl. A tiny amount of wear in any of that means pretty rubbish clutch operation.
July 23, 20251 yr Use of the clutch is not *required* to change gear. You can test the gearbox separately from the clutch. If you have no experience doing this, here is a method: Put the bike on a stand. Although not mandatory, it's probably best to remove the chain. (But you will have the extra inertia of the rear wheel to overcome.) Remove the spark plug and flywheel cover. Turn the engine by hand using the flywheel. Attempt to change gears while rotating the flywheel back and forth. It will only take a small fraction of a complete engine revolution to select the next gear. If you have not removed the chain, you may find it easier to rotate the rear wheel instead.
July 24, 20251 yr Author On 7/23/2025 at 12:50 PM, konrad said: Use of the clutch is not *required* to change gear. You can test the gearbox separately from the clutch. If you have no experience doing this, here is a method: Put the bike on a stand. Although not mandatory, it's probably best to remove the chain. (But you will have the extra inertia of the rear wheel to overcome.) Remove the spark plug and flywheel cover. Turn the engine by hand using the flywheel. Attempt to change gears while rotating the flywheel back and forth. It will only take a small fraction of a complete engine revolution to select the next gear. If you have not removed the chain, you may find it easier to rotate the rear wheel instead. I can rock the bike And click up thro the gears And back down I'm pretty sure Now that it's a very tired clutch as plates look IN pretty poor condition 😔
July 24, 20251 yr Author On 7/22/2025 at 10:17 PM, feetupsbetter said: Hi just replied to your previous post with a bit of general information before I saw this one. The parts book is what I had originally, don’t think there’s much else out there. You can see the chain tubes on there and the tank/seat bulges, but that book shows a full width hub which I think were the earlier models. The clutch mechanism was a bit suspect in that the little pawl 2863.106 was made of poor material and its square hole wasn’t a very accurate fit on the bottom of the operating lever shaft 3863.081. Both the square on the shaft and the hole seemed to wear easily along with the finger end of the pawl. A tiny amount of wear in any of that means pretty rubbish clutch operation. Yeah have since ordered that little brass pressure pawl also a new spider as the centre looks worn in motion trial's recommended a 20 mm spider (base to tip of the leg) And to grind down to 15 mm instead of the standard 13 mm many thanks for your help
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