[uhoh7]

Hi Guys,

Tipped over yesterday and now shifter will rotate 360 degrees.

Did my searching here, and it seems that this is not unheard of, and I may be able to fix it without splitting the cases.

I've watched all the repair videos, which make reference to the issue, but do not actually show the procedure to repair/replace the "top hat" on the right side of the shift drum, under the clutch.

I do know that there is a circlip which holds the piece in place.

If anyone is familar with the part, could you walk me through inspection/ repair from the right side: let's say I have the clutch cover and clutch off.

Looking at the parts list I see "SHIFT SHAFT CENTER LOCATOR AND SPRING" MT280238037CT. Is that all I would need if I don't have to split the cases?

TY in advance

This post has been edited by uhoh7: 06 June 2010 - 07:35 PM

[JSE]

uhoh7, on Jun 6 2010, 12:13 PM, said:

Hi Guys,
Tipped over yesterday and now shifter will rotate 360 degrees.
Did my searching here, and it seems that this is not unheard of, and I may be able to fix it without splitting the cases.
I've watched all the repair videos, which make reference to the issue, but do not actually show the procedure to repair/replace the "top hat" on the right side of the shift drum, under the clutch.
I do know that there is a circlip which holds the piece in place.
If anyone is familar with the part, could you walk me through inspection/ repair from the right side: let's say I have the clutch cover and clutch off.
Looking at the parts list I see "SHIFT SHAFT CENTER LOCATOR AND SPRING" MT280238037CT. Is that all I would need if I don't have to split the cases?
TY in advance

You'll always want to inspect for damage before ordering parts. The shift centering assembly is under the clutch basket and is removed by taking off the circlip, but you may have damaged the shift rollers on the internal shaft and that will encompass splitting the cases. The rollers have a built-in stop, which in your case, is not working now as the arms that hold the rollers may be bent. If just the centering spring assembly is broken, as I remember, the shaft will not rotate 360 but still be limited in rotation.

Jon

[uhoh7]

TY for reply Jon,

I should not say it rotates 360--- It comes to a hard stop about 180.
It is still possible to shift the bike and the action actually feels normal, the clicks and the return spring presure.

It was not a very hard hit.

Once I remove the circlip, does the hat come out vertically in one piece? should I be looking for extra parts in there?

Should I start with bike in neutral, or does this matter?

How can I tell if the top hat is damaged--- seems like I ought to try replacing it first before pulling the motor.

TY, sir

[JSE]

uhoh7, on Jun 6 2010, 09:09 PM, said:

TY for reply Jon,
I should not say it rotates 360--- It comes to a hard stop about 180.
It is still possible to shift the bike and the action actually feels normal, the clicks and the return spring presure.
It was not a very hard hit.
Once I remove the circlip, does the hat come out vertically in one piece? should I be looking for extra parts in there?
Should I start with bike in neutral, or does this matter?
How can I tell if the top hat is damaged--- seems like I ought to try replacing it first before pulling the motor.
TY, sir

You might be o.k. I agree, you should always check the simple things first.
There's a 4mm head capscrew holding an eccentric bushing with a 10mm head and the tangs of the centering spring
go on either side of that bushing. You may want to take that off with the "top hat" to make it a little easier the first time.
The centering spring and top hat assembly pull off the end of the shift shaft that protrudes out of the case.

It's a good idea to start with the bike in neutral, but not an absolute necessity. If you look at the top of the
"top hat", there is a piece of metal that goes across and that piece fits into the slots on
the end of the shift shaft (it will be more clear when you look at it). That piece of metal often breaks off from the
top hat in a shunt with a rock, but then you usually do not have spring pressure on lever unless the piece is catching
slightly.

Jon

[uhoh7]

TY Jon,

I removed the circlip and washer, then the spring (which looks like it will be interesting to put back), however the top hat itself does not seem to want to budge. I can see the cross pin is sheared, so maybe I am lucky.

I'm thinking about trying to get a good grip with plyers and a cloth and yank---but fear hurting something---tips?

OK I got it had to yank a bit.

TY sir.

PS just to make things interesting I forgot to grab the thrust bearing as I pulled off the cover so those needle bearings went loose--counting them now and praying one did not drop through the small hole at the center of the clutch (bike was on it's side).

This post has been edited by uhoh7: 07 June 2010 - 06:56 AM

[JSE]

uhoh7, on Jun 6 2010, 11:27 PM, said:

TY Jon,
I removed the circlip and washer, then the spring (which looks like it will be interesting to put back), however the top hat itself does not seem to want to budge. I can see the cross pin is sheared, so maybe I am lucky.
I'm thinking about trying to get a good grip with plyers and a cloth and yank---but fear hurting something---tips?
OK I got it had to yank a bit.
TY sir.
PS just to make things interesting I forgot to grab the thrust bearing as I pulled off the cover so those needle bearings went loose--counting them now and praying one did not drop through the small hole at the center of the clutch (bike was on it's side).

Sounds good. The cross pin usually breaks on impact to the lever, but not always. Hopefully you are in good shape.

If you wiggle/twist while pulling on the top hat, it should come off easily. It's supposed to be a tight fit.

Those little needle bearings should not be loose. That's an indication of advanced wear, so you'll need to replace that bearing thrust washer, obviously. If you are missing any (put found ones in the washer housing just to be sure you have them all), you might try putting the bike upright and with drain plug removed, squirt solvent into the inside engine case to try to flush them out.

I think the newer bikes come with magnets on both lower and upper drainplugs rather than just lower plug. I run magnets on both plugs on my 02" Pro.

Jon

[uhoh7]

Thank so much Jon,

Parts on their way, I'll report.

Asked Adrian at lewisport if he had done many of these,

"Oh, hundreds" he replied.

hehe

Best

uhoh7