Pre-65 Bikes
1,447 topics in this forum
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As an ongoing trials project I have been riding and working on a and '54 G3LS. I've recently converted to an all alloy engine, and as the next step I'm looking to make a few changes to the road based frame. As I am sure you will understand, I'm looking to steepen the angle of the steering head, and to swap the standard heavyweight swinging arm for the later lightweight version. I believe there used to be instructions for the swinging arm confersion posted on the AMOC site , but havn't been able to find them. Can anyone provide details of the best way to swap the swinging arms? Is it a case of changing the pin in the swinging arm, or do I need to alter the wid…
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Guys i am after a modern Rigid frame for a villiers 8e Is there anyone making such a frame or is it just me thats mad!! Cheers
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Hi Gurus I have BSA C15 pitted forks. My friend told me to check with Industrial Hydraulic Repair company to re-chrome them . I contacted them and they said they can make new fork tube. which might be much cheaper then re-chrome. and last longer. Is it good idea to try new fork tube ? Is it possible to increase length of fork tube , Do i need to change spring or fork internal etc. I was think may be i can put some spacer on top nut and keep forks internal same ? Regards JH
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Good morning folks, I spent a few days in Scotland at the beginning of the month watching the Pre 65 event and it's re-ignited my enthusiasm to get my 1960 C15 sorted and I'd be grateful of any advice. The rear frame loop where it attaches to the frame in front of the seat is welded which looking at the parts manual isn't standard as they appear to be normally bolted through a bracket between the tank and seat. I'm hoping that one day my entry for the Scottish pre 65 will make the ballot, would the frame as it stands make it through machine examination? I've fitted the smaller front primary drive gear and it has a 13 tooth front sprocket, the rear sprocket is 62 teeth …
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Hi, I'm really keen on getting a Rigid (I like a challenge!) and while top choice would be something like a nice big Matchless, funds just aren't going to stretch that far at the moment. I've been looking at little Bantam's and the most available option at the right price is by far a plunger framed version. Are plunger frames going to be any use or will I be fighting a losing battle? I will be buying it as a bit of a project but will be trying to keep it reasonably standard so would rather not start replacing the rear loops to get rid of the plungers. Any opinions would be appreciated! Thanks!
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Hi all, I did the Sam Cooper road trial yesterday and towards the end of the trial the engine was sounding terrible, but after letting it cool down for a while it got better and then the noise would return as soon as it warmed up. From cold the engine runs fantastic, no noises at all, it only makes the noise when it's hot. I think it must be related to heat and wondered if there any specific things to look out for. To be honest I had a similar issue with an alloy barrel on a BSA where the liner would move when the engine got hot. I had to get a space made so the head pressed against the line preventing it from banging into the head. The top hat stopped the lin…
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Do all the Jackson Ariel frames have the oil filler on the side of the frame, or did some have it on the down pipe similar to the Bartram frames?
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Hi Guys I am new to Pre-65 world. Just thinking what street bikes are good candidate for converting from street bikes to Pre-65. Good candidate in sense of below: Expense wise ? Time wise ? Person skills required ? My personal experience so far with BSA C15 , it requires lot of patience and bit expense . need to change forks/hubs/wheels/tyres/ignition/sprockets/ and offcourse engine mods etc , there are lot of good products in market but expensive . Is there any Poor's man guide to Pre-65 Cheers JH
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Firstly who does this conversion? Secondly what's involved. i read here that the stanchions are machined down. Why if it's 35mm into 35mm? What's the bit about bondong/gluing them. I have basic engineering skills, so wondering why I can't do this myself? Thanks
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What spark plug are you fellow Triumph Cub riders using please, is one with a projected nose better or stay with the ordinary type, if NGK should it be a 5 or 6 heat range?
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As some of you know i have finally succumbed and gone over to the dark side and am in the process of building a Bantam. So a few questions as i am a bit confused. 1. Have any of you used the new conrod assemblies, obviously Chinese, from Rex Caunt ? If so what are your experiences ? 2. The popular, and cheap which i like, mod is to swap 2nd and 3rd gear over. Do you find this adequate or do you wish you had spent the extra and fitted a low 2nd gear ? 3. Again the popular mod is to fit the Suzuki 185 piston but i notice that Rex Caunt sells a piston with a correct size gudgeon pin for the Bantam small end so you dont need to make a bush to fit. Has anybody …
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Is it possible to build a Matchless/AJS 500cc short stroke motor using a roadster engine and one of those barrels advertised on E,Bay? or any other way for that matter Thanks
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... but nevertheless some fantastic pictures of old iron :-) http://www.nickveasey.com/current-project/4586810913
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What's the going price for a pair of wheels, alloy flanged rims, galvanised spokes with Cub hubs?
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has anyone tried a flywheel weight on the pvl rotor on the big bore four speed motor if so how did they find it and how much weight did you use. regards john.
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can anybody tell me what forks and top/bottom clamps will fit straight into my triumph cub thanks
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Does anyone know the do's and don'ts re 35 mm yokes for use in the Scottish pre 65 trial. Trying to get my Bantam eligible, not too sure about the yokes. Whether I ride the trial remains to be seen but at least if the bike is eligible it's easier to sell if the time comes, But I will try to enter in the mean time when it's right.....
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The alloy billet fork yokes that are sold by a number of people are usually available with steering stem parallel to the fork tubes or run out of usually around 1.5° I have basic knowledge of how trail is calculated but so many people have varied opinion on this so if you have tried both types what did you find, which option seemed the better?
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Out on the bike today and my C15 was struggling with the mud clogging the front sprocket. Fortunately I don't ride in mud too much but on a few occasions that I do the issue with the front sprocket clogging causes the bike to snatch(chain jumping sprocket??),is there a way off keeping mud out the sprocket.I have an extension on the bottom of the mudguard going past the swingarm pivot.Any ideas?? cheers the noo Brian
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so I have built my c15 almost completely from jumble parts and its time to get her running however there is a problem.. the timing side bush I have turned up is slightly tight I really don't want to strip it back down an if I do I will prob just buy the bearing conversion.. however any one else had this problem when using a bush for timing side? it is very hard to kick over altho not impossible.. doesn't help that im using an m20 kickstart borrowed from a friend.. any ideas on how to loosen her and get the oil pumping round to loosen it up a bit??? any comments welcome
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