You can get em rewound for a lot less, i was gonna ask if you ruled out the kill switch, was out with a friend on his Beta on the weekend and he had problems as you describe we disconnected the Kill and problem gone.
I would check your timing and the woodruff key, heat is a strange thing, could be that the flywheel is twisting a bit and putting your timing out...Worth a try
You know how upset you would be if I bought a better bike...you would'nt have anything to repair, about time you sold the KTM, bought yourself a nice shiny evo and sold me yours!! Bubba Gumps rules
Hi I am going to overhaul my Upside down forks on my 00 Rev 3. Any tips greatly appreciated. They are weeping slightly so seals are going to be replaced but would like info on set up.I have the levels from the Beta site. One area of confusion (it does'nt take much) for me is which fork is classed as the left one, looking at the bike from the front or looking at the bike from ride position. Also tips on the rear paoli suspension set up adjustments would be good if anyone has info.
Thanks - i'm running it on V-Max 99 Ron unleaded. I wondered if it might be some sort of oil seperation/condensation. unfortunately the bike lives in a wooden shed and does get cold with some condensation. The petrol was a bit old, but now buying in smaller quanities. Hopefully sorted now and will watch out for it in the future - thanks all.
Caddabs
IF THE FUEL HAS BEEN SITTING STAGNANT FOR A LONG WHILE AND GETTING HEATED THEN COOLING IT WILL BE BACTERIA, BOATS THAT STAND IDLE FOR A LONG WHILE USE A FUEL POLISHER!!(I KID YOU NOT) WHICH CIRCULATES THE FUEL AT A VERY LOW FLOW. DOUBT YOU WANT TO GO TO THESE EXTREMES!!! A WEALTH OF USELESS INFO NO DOUBT!!
You do not need to use distilled water in Wales, we got the pure stuff, we send the chlorine chemical filled stuff over the border
Neath does have a club I believe and you will find info on welsh trials. I believe also Merthyr has one which meets at the imperial hotel 2nd tuesday of the month, not to far from neath.
Dextron ATF is good, I use it in mine rather than the light gear oil, gives a responsive feel and grabs quickly but clutch makes a bit more noise.
I thought as much the stator seems fine as with the fan wires linked if i kick it over the fan runs so i presume its charging will try lampkins in the morning thanks jim
Jim I investigated a possible stator problem the other way around, bike runs but no fan..Apparently the stator has 2 circuits one for each function.
Because the bike would run I had nno problem establishing feed for the lighting and fan circuits.
I do not know how you would check the other way but would presume another feed goes from the stator to the CDI circuit, do not know if it is a similar check for what you are looking for but got to be worth a look. My problem was the good old voltage regulator.
First things first check you have the right plug in, Beta recommend the NGK BP7ES this is far to cold I run a BP5ES which is what Lampkin recommends if you really want to splash out BPR5ES but I have noticed no difference other than in price,
Then sorting out your airfilter would be a high priority, the 2000-01 rev's have the filter on the side (which I assume is where yours is) this is fundamentally flawed its virtually impossible to seal and just fills up with muck and even in shallow streams manages to suck water through, Way back in 2004 I bought a airbox the subframe rails and rear fender to move it up top (the mount on your silencer will have to be moved and about a mm of material removed from the r/h subfame rail to clear the shock) Pricey! but well worth the expense.
Can we have a bit more info on your top end rattle ie from cold or only when hot, maybe a topend rebuild is in order (it is 10 years old) rings, gudgen pin, circlips and gaskets
And are you sure its not clutch rattle, you say its intermittent does it rattle only with the clutch pulled in,
The kickback could be a worn spring on the idle gear, on top of the clutch side case right above the kickstart shaft there is a bolt check its tight (just nipped don't wrench it!) if it is tight, pull the case off remove the kickstart and gearshift and water pump hose Then lay the bike on its side to save draining the oil, you will have to release the sump plate I only remove the rear bolts and wedge it wide enough with a wooden wedge,
remove the idler gear and study it to see how it works (Its simple enough but would take a fair bit to explain) and then just wind it on a touch to tension the spring a little more,
You will have to replace the inner gasket, and depending on how flush you feel may want to take the opportunity to replace the gear/kickstart shaft seals and maybe over haul your water pump
Thanks
It did have a BP5 I have changed to a BP7 I got from a Beta dealer, what gap do you use?
One step at a time on this I think.
Also for info, the rattle seems to have appeared & got worse after I freed of a stuck on clutch (held lever in and ran hot for 20 mins or so), the bike had stood for 3 years and only been started a handfull of times, I did not strip the clutch out and do the plate mod but changed the oil to ATF. She still drags a little but nothing that effects my riding i will carry the plate mod out soon.
Hi All, Thanks for the replies to my recent posts.
I am getting somewhere to getting her running well. Rectifier replaced fan, and cooling system now all good.
Starting!! She kicks back like a mule on occasions.
When I looked at the Bike it was advertised as a 2003...It was clearly a 2000 Rev 3.
The guy I bought her from said he had relpaced the plug, changed oil and replaced filter...He had.
The only thing is that it looks as if he has installed a 2003 filter rather than a 2000.
When I inspected it, clearly it is not a good fit, it looks as if a bit of sponge has been stuffed in the airbox and clearly clogging the air intake!!
I have ordered a new one to suit the year from trials Bits.
Now do you think that besides this helping cure the oily plug and exhaust, it will take away some of the Kick back i am getting.
Or do I need to look elswhere for possible problems, and as a matter of precaution do you think I need to de-coke.
I also am encountering a very high pitched pinging at the top end of the engine, cant say its a knock as such, more a rattle, and it seems to be intermitent??
flywheel might of twisted slightly, causing the timing to be out
I would put my money on it being the woodruff key...Whip the flywheel off and take a peek, remember though to torque her back up (this is important) use some rope (Not Wire) down the plug hole to jam her up.... I had the same problem with an old shrimping vessels donkey engine when i dropped her over the side once....I think for this valuable information you owe me a drink..and I bet I am right!!
I do not see how the timing would have been affected / moved (but you never know) I think she is probably still a bit damp around the electrics, coil,cdi,cut out switch, plug cap/lead, voltage reg etc etc. Did you take the flywheel cover off and spray inside with WD40?
Next time you decide to go up the Taff Jeff, take some scuba Gear!! WD 40 is the answer, dry her out electrics etc, clean the carb, change fuel and oil, she will be fine!!
Bit of luck I will join you in a week or so once I sort this Ferkin electrical problem out.
The 2 bolts hold your flywheel weight on, Under that there are 4 crossheads that fix the magnets in place, the weight was an option world wide but standard in the uk, the softer power delivery with it fitted, suits our slippery muddy conditions, I like most of the lads I know run without it and I only bolt it on for extremely slippery days, without it the engine spools up a lot quicker giving more 'Punch' once you got your bike running experiment with & without it,
I've had a few electrical problems recently (Last 6 months) I'm sure its just the age of the bike, It is 10 years old after all! and Strongly believe its you regulator I have only heard of triggers failing never the windings on our older stators, 35 odd sods for a VR or 80 odd notes for a rewind, Im sure Lampkins or maybe BVM will send you a VR on return.
Flea Bay seems to be the cheapest for flywheel pullers
Thanks for the sound advice, will try the weight removal in the near future.
Gday, you need to check stator output voltages on the multimeters AC range, not DC. I'd recheck that first before anything else. You should see around 50-100 volts max at say 2000 - 3000 rpm. If thats no good you need a flywheel puller and just remove the centre nut. Impact guns are good for this. Leave all other bolts/screws etc in place, they hold the magnets into the inside of the flywheel. There are aftermarket stators available for these as someone mentioned above, as well as the rewind options.
Cheers,
Stork
Top Man!! Thanks Stork, was looking at DC, tried on AC and showing a feed. You saved me a lotta time and Money.If your ever in Wales I owe you a Beer!!!
Thanks for your replys all, I made the mistake of having the multimeter on DC when checking the feed directly from the Stator, tried it on AC and shows around 100volts + at 2500rpm ish, I am going to try a new regulator .Thanks all
Gday, sounds like a rewind. Is the Yellow shorted to ground?
Cheers,
Stork
Hi Stork, I ran the bike with the Regulator disconnected, put a multimeter on dc connected one side of meter to the yellow lead that goes to the Reg and grounded the other lead from the meter.No volts at all at tickover. I think it should have shown something if ok? I think a rewind, but first get the flywheel off, need a puller, do I need only to remove the centre nut 24mm I think'there are 2 bolts either side of this do I leave these in place ?
I have a 2000 rev 3 and it was the regulator when I had the problem, much cheaper than a rewind
Thanks Kev, I have I believe checked the Regulator,correct me if I am wrong(I often am) if I check resistance between the yellow in feed and one of the blue temp sender wires there is a circuit no resistance. Then I connect the 2 blues together simulating the temp sender switching) and check for continuity and resitance between the yellow infeed and the Fan multi connector there is a circuit there between the yellow in feed and the black wire on the fan connector block and it shows around 4 ohms resistance. My next move is to run the bike and check if there is a supply coming from the stator on the yellow wire, any ideas as to what voltages I should se a a few thousand RPM...PS I hope it is the regulator but to me all points to the Stator...any thoughts advice greatly appreciated.
Finally narrowing down the problem with my Non Working Fan.
I have put the fan across a 12v supply and spins fine.
I have put a multimeter across the sender switch while in boiling water all OK.
I have checked the resistance through the voltage Regulator from yellow to blue and then connecting the 2 blues together simulating the fan switch on, there is a circuit from yellow to black on the fan multi plug withblack and red wires nothing on red, this i believe tells me that this critter is OK or is this not the case??
Now if this is the case, is it the windings on the charge circuit side of the stator? (Bike Runs Fine) If so where can I get it rewound in the UK or the price of new.
you get a better converation talking to yourself.....atf will make clutch/primary drive noise worse best clutch fix is as described by dan williams pinned at top of beta forum. The general opinion seems to be PJ1 (dont know spec) for beta gearbox/clutch. Not sure what you want to do with cooling system... beware of corrosion at water pump cover on pre 2009 beta's.
Thanks Chewy,
I will whip the cover off the pump and check out. I have the intention of following the clutch mod but to be fair there is minimal drag....at the moment!!
As for the fan operation fingers crossed some one may come up with a remedy.
Bubba Gumps rules
Beta Rev 3 Runs Rubbish When Hot?
in Beta
Posted
You can get em rewound for a lot less, i was gonna ask if you ruled out the kill switch, was out with a friend on his Beta on the weekend and he had problems as you describe we disconnected the Kill and problem gone.