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I have success!! Thanks for all the help and it worked like a champ. Found a 14mm socket that fit perfect, heated the hub a little on the bearing I wanted to get out first, fliped it over, put in the socket and gave it a smack out out she came. I can see how that inner spacer for the rear has a lip on it. The front was easy as the inner spacer just pushed to the side and a drift took the bearing right out. I've attached a pic of the front and rear spacers so those that haven't seen them out can see what they are. The rear is on the top.
Again, Thanks guys for all the suggestions and help,
Greg
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r2wtrials, Will do, Thanks
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Thanks Fella's, Now I am armed with good ideas so I'll have another go at it this weekend.
Greg
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I tried moving the inner spacer and it wouldn't budge. I guess I'll get a new inner spacer so if I bugger the one I in there I'll have a new one to replace it.
Thanks for your help!
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Whats the trick to get the bearings out of the wheels? I took the rear wheel off and tried to get the bearings outbut no go. I see there is a inner spacer that has a bit of a lip on it. I attempted to tap on it to push the far side bearing out but the spacer is really soft and the metal started to smear so I stopped. I ended up pulling the dust cover off the bearings and cleaning them the best I could (the grease in there was really dried out) and packing fresh grease in. That did help a lot with the wheel spinning a lot freer but I'd really like to put fresh bearings in both the front and rear.
The outer spacers on the rear where a bugger to get out so I'm thinking the bearings will be too and I don't want to screw the wheel up doing it. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Greg
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We have a few in the our club that are using it in their GG machines. I'm still a newb at this. When I bought the bike the guy used 927 in it all the time he had it. I took the head off to see how much carbon was built up and was surprised that there was very little and the stuff that was on the head was very soft. I scraped it off with my thumb nail and a plastic scraper. I was thinking it was going to be hard and baked on.
I've had a couple of comments from folks at a few trials that picked up on the smell right off and knew I was running 927. It's worked well so far so I think I'll keep using it. By the way I mix it at 70-1.
Greg
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I use it all the time in my 02 270. Works great and smells great....
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I went to fire up my 02 Rev3 270 and had no spark. Just for background the bike has run great. Ran it a week ago and turn it off. About 2 months ago I put in a new stator because I buggered it up taking off the flywheel.
So here's what I've done so far.
No spark a the spark plug.
No spark from sparkplug wire. no power out of coil
Checked the red wire coming out of the store. Power coming out of there.
Checked the wires that plug into the coil. Just barely a reading on the volt meter.
I called Beta USA and they said it might be the black box as they hardly ever seen a coil go bad.
I disconected the kill switch to see if it was maybe stuck and grounding it out but it didn't make a differance.
Anyone have any other ideas for me to check out before I put out the $$ for a black box?
Thanks Guys and Gals,
Greg
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Thanks!! that's just what I was looking for. My timing was quite advanced. Again Thanks for the info!!
Greg
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Ok, I made a $350 mistake. Pulled the flywheel to check the stater and screwed it up. Didn't realize the holes for the puller bolts went all the way through and as I was getting everything snugged up a turned the bolts in instead of the center puller bolt. Moved the flywheel while tightening the center bolt on the puller and DUHHH, broke the wires on the stator.
When I took the stater off it was adjusted so that the head of the bolt was about 1/2 of it's diameter from the center on the groove. It looked like it was at one time directly in the middle of the groove (am I making sense here?). I was wondering if when out of the factory it was set dead center (where I can see the previous head marks) and the place it was at was advanced? The bike was ridden and owned by an advanced rider and some folks have said that mine seemed a bit quick and the timing was probably advanced. The bike is an 02 270. What is the factory setting on the beta stators?
Thanks,
Greg
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What is the model of the carb on a 02 270 Rev3? I've been to the Mikuni site www.mikuni.com and downloaded the VM Carb Tuning manual but none of the numbers on the Parts list match any that are stamped on my carb. My carb has these numbers stamped on it: WO Y2 and 26 683
This web site is Mikuni America. Is there another site out there?
This inquiring mind wants to know.
Thanks
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I puchased the Beta packing for my muffler. It's comes already formed to the shape of the muffler. I was surprised at how easy it is to just slip in. Cost like 16 bucks I think.
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Recieved my parts for the muffler last night. The packing material was prevormed to the mufflers shape and just slipped right in. The whole jobe took less than 5 minutes. I'm going to order another to keep on hand as it was like $16 for it.
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Ok, I'll scape at the crude on the chain to find the master link. Didn't think that if could be on the inside which makes sense now.
Thanks for you help and understanding the Newb questions.
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OK, I'm the newb. How do I get the chain off? I'm told there's no master link on these chains. Right? Does the swing arme have to come off to get the chain off?
My chain has all kinds of chain lube juck accumulated on it and I want to clean it good. (I bought the bike used).
Thanks ALL!
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I took the muffler apart last night and the packing in the muffler was soaked with oil. The O rings are broken so I'll have to get some new ones before I put it back on. I can see how it could start on fire if the muffler really got hot. I'll put packing the muffler on the regular maintenance list.
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Dave, That is sooooo Trick!! Any plans in the works to sell them? If so I'm very interested. Having a cover with you name is too kool......
Great Work!!!
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Bob, After what happened to you I'll be sure to take it apart and repack it before riding again.
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Thanks All for your replies. I'll have a go at it this afternoon after I get the "Honey Do's" done. I agree with you Stu about changing all of this out. I plan to change all the fluids also so that I know it was done and when it was done.
Again, thanks for all the info. The club has a trials tomorrow and I'm looking forward to my "second" trials.
The Newb.....
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Bob, thanks for the info. As this bike is new to me and I don't have a clue as to or if it has ever been done I'll talk a look. Is the packing material something you pick up at the bike shop?
I know not the pack it tight but are the any other "TIPS" on packing a muffler that I should look for?
Thanks,
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How often should the muffler be repacked? How does this effect the operation of the motor? Is seen some talk on repacking mufflers and I'm wondering what it's all about.
Ok, I'm a newb......
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Thanks Fellas'. I received an email from Billy T and he said the he thought this was done when the bikes came into the country to try and stop the leaking. His suggestion was to take out the ball and replace it with the needle and seat and set it up per his intructions (which I have printed out and ready to go). I did order the parts and they should be in the mail today. I'll wait till next week to to the swap as the bike runs good and I have a trials on Sunday. Don't want to muck that up just in case something goes wrong.
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Can anyone shed some light on this pic. The carb in my 02 Rev 3 has a ball instead of a needle and seat. I plan to put a needle in it and was wondering if it came this way originally or if it was some kind of a mod? The bike was leaking fuel badly when parked so I took the carb apart to clean it (which it look very clean to me) and blew out the ball which so far has stoppe the leakinf of fuel. The bike runs great but there's the mystery of this ball. I'm very new to trials so this inquiring mind want to know.
One guy said it looks like a snowmobile set up.
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