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johnc

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About johnc

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  1. 195cc per leg for Black Engine Beamish air assisted forks. 236cc per leg for Silver Engine Beamish and RL250 Exacta. According to Manuals.
  2. From Jim....no bushes on Fork Stanchion, recess supposed to be there! Bushes are fitted inside the leg! From Jim... If you look down the fork leg, you should see the bushes about 1-2" down from where the seal sits, if they are not there then you should see a recess about 1" long where they should sit. You can't buy them to my knowledge, you have to send them off to someone like Philpot's to have them done. Most common air leak problems are, bottom allen bolt not having a copper washer (this would force oil out of the bottom) O-ring around the Schrader valve body not sealing properly Schrader valve not sealing properly O-ring around the fork cap top not sealing properly I always put a smear of silicone around the O-rings even if they are new. Remember, there is only a very small amount of air in the forks, it is not like a tyre that can expand and take more air. If you are not using a proper fork pump, when you take the inflator tube off, the tiny 'hiss' can mean up to 10 psi lost. You can try pumping up the leg then immersing it in water and looking for air bubbles, even one bubble is not good enough.​
  3. Not 100% sure it does take a bush. Gay thin one if it does, recess only 1mm. Rough edges on recess not doing seals much good though when I insert the slider. Thanks for all the input...would be nice to know one way or another.
  4. Yea I know there is no mention of fork bush in manual but fork sliders look as though they should have split bush on them (see pic)...maybe I'm wrong?
  5. Thanks but phoned Crooks Suzuki, no luck! Part not listed in their parts list or mine. Bushes were missing when I got the bike and losing air due to fork seals getting damaged when inserting fork slider as seal is catching on edges where bush should be. At least that what I think it is as all other seals on the forks have been replaced. Will wait and see what Jim says.​
  6. Emailed him waiting on reply, thanks!
  7. Anybody know where I would get replacement split bushes that wrap round the bottom of the chrome fork slider​? RL250/325 air assisted forks. Nothing in manual about them so no part number. Thanks.
  8. johnc

    Rl325

    Thanks for that and yes changed jet.
  9. johnc

    Rl325

    Changed my RL250 which was using 40:1 mix to an RL325 which has had rebore, new piston and rings. Should I use same mix running engine in?
  10. johnc

    Ty250Z

    Thanks for that, had to google DID rim as I hadn't a clue what that meant
  11. johnc

    Ty250Z

    Need new valve for rear tubeless tyre on TY250Z (TYZ). Have the Yamaha part no but can't find original part in UK. Are the valves all the same size on Trials bikes and would a car one do the job? Cheers, John.
  12. Thanks for that ,gives me something to work on! Looks like normal plug caps on coils in fact I'd never heard of a resistor plug cap! Had to google it to find out what you were talking about LOL! Will let you know how I get on. Thanks for your help. John.
  13. Further to my ongoing problem...connected one of the correct CDI units (31900-38020) to the wrong wires from magneto (deliberately!), held on to both wires which go to ignition coil and kicked over engine and hey presto I got a shock so it appears CDI unit is working! Tried three different ignition coils but no spark though. They could be knackered or not working because CDI unit is not wired correctly,will try and get another ignition coil to try! This however does not solve my wiring problems though! Stator plate appears to be original with 4 wires from it (which match the 3 from the CDI unit) ignoring the red/yellow one which is for lights and is working! The three B/W,B/R and R/W when connected with corresponding wires on CDI unit.....nothing! When connected wrongly R/W ( stator plate) to B/W (CDI)....B/R ( stator plate) to B/R (CDI) this leaves B/W ( stator plate) with R/W (CDI) both unconnected, I am then getting power through CDI unit for some reason! Could there be a fault in the primary coils that is causing the problem? Any Black Engine Beamish owners out there that can help,it's driving me nuts! Cheers, John.
  14. Thanks for replies. Already contacted Jim at beamish owners club with no joy,like me electrics not his strong point but he has already been a great help with other parts! Have also posted on Beamish Yahoo Group. Will inspect correct units that I have again and see if I can suss out what problem is. Cheers!
  15. Picked up an old Suzuki Beamish RL250 1979, Black Engine Model and am in process of rebuilding but am having probs with ignition! Electrics not my strong point! Old CDI unit on bike has no 32900 (can't read rest) but I assume it's -30511 and it aint working. Appears to be a Suzuki RM250 unit with brackets bent to get it to fit on frame! According to book mine should be 31900-38020 but I've tried three with their own coils and no spark, so looks like the correct units will not work, got them off ebay as working and I hoped that at least one of them might be working but there is a chance they could all be kaput of course! However I also aquired another old 32900-30511 with a different coil and this does produce a good spark. However the connection to magneto is the same as one from CDI unit (three pin,two male 1 female) and so wont connect! The only way I can get it to work is by only using 2 of the male/female connections and leaving a male pin on each wire bare which are apparently not needed to get a spark. Not a major prob as I can change connection though. Will bike run ok with RM250 unit or will timing be out? Hope my rambling are clear enough to understand. Any help much appreciated,many thanks! Progress on bike so far.....
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