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billm

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  1. Thank's for the measurements Woody, my Venhill cable cable is 122cm overall. The inner of my cable is 10cm longer than the outer that's over 1/2" difference between your original and the Venhill. It looks like the Venhill cables are still too long which is why I've had to add the 1/4" spacer to get it right.
  2. Woody, sorry to be a pain but can you give me the measurements from your original Yam cable so I can compare it to the new Venhill cable, above, that was bought last week. It would be interesting to know if Venhill are still making them too long.Cheers Bill
  3. Just to close this out I adjusted the actuator free play using RichTY250E's guide and reckon that's pretty well spot on but it made no difference to the slack cable. In the end I followed Woody's advice and inserted the cable outer through a 1/4" long aluminium collar down at the cable stop under the engine. This effectively shortened the cable by that much (1/4") now it's exactly as I would expect with the lever adjuster turned out about an 1/8" and the free play at the lever at about 2mm with the clutch operation much improved. I still can't explain why this mod is necessary except to agree with Woody and Marky G that the Venhill cable is too long but to counter that feetupfun bought his Venhill cable recently from John Cane as did I and his is OK with no additional spacer??? Thanks for all the comments and advice. Bill.
  4. Both my cables the one that came with the bike and the new one were made by Venhill and they are the same length 1220mm inner & 1120mm outer, the new one came from John Cane only last week. I reckon that if the inner was shorter by just 1/4" (6.35mm) relative to the outer then that would make all the difference. It would be useful to know what the original Yamaha cable length was but I would imagine that there are none of those around now.. I will follow RichTY250E's guidance and try the cam adjuster again today and see if I can get the actuator at 90 degrees to the cable but even then I don't think that will account for 6.35mm because although it sits slightly forward I reckon it's only 2 or 3mm. Thanks for all the comments and advice so far. Bill.
  5. Sorry Woody our replies must have crossed in the ether. It is a Venhill cable as is the one that came with the bike so perhaps that is the answer. I think that unless the cam adjuster has a miraculous affect on the cable then I will shim out the outer cable from the locator at the bottom of the engine with some small washers. I'm still a little concerned that when the cam adjuster is screwed fully in it pushes the actuator out of the block is that a sign of a problem or is that normal? Cheers Bill.
  6. Thanks both for the quick reply, I did try and adjust the actuating arm but with little success. It does not sit at right angles with the cable as Feetupfun suggests but instead points forwards slightly towards the front of the engine so this could be part of my problem. I screwed the adjusting screw in until it stopped but all that happend was that the actuating arm moved downwards away from the block exposing about 5mm of the shaft that goes up into the gearbox casing. The acuating lever did not change position either towards the front or rear of the block?? I have to admit I am not sure how to do this adjustment and my manual is a bit vague so am I doing it wrong or does this point to a problem with the adjustor or clutch release mechanism? Cheers Bill.
  7. Hello All, I bought a TY250 some time ago as a non runner and over a few months have got it up to reasonable scratch mechanically and have even wobbled around a couple of twinshock trials on it. I have come across a problem that I can
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