Thanks for your suggestions, unfortunately the batteries are sealed into a rubber case so I have no external identification marks which is why I sound so vague, I guess attacking it with a craft knife is the only way ahead.
The charger is a Model:L200CM-48 (no makers name given), output is given as DC54.6V 3.5A, battery type suited 13cells li-ion pattery pack.
I had formed the opinion it has Li-Po batteries from the sticker on the side cover which states 20S Li-Po supercharged, unlike the Li-ion stated on the charger.
I am measuring 43V today (haven't touched anything since saturday) charger still showing an error and nothing now when the battery is on the bike.
Looking for a bit of help with my sons 20R. Little used 2015 model, bought it a couple of months ago with LiPo battery already fitted, last ridden about 10 days ago. Plugged in the charger this morning and it was flashing to indicate an error!
Checked battery voltage - 51V. When the battery is connected to the bike, the bike can be switched on the power lights illuminate on the throttle for a moment and then the power relay drops out. I've checked voltage too and from the key switch 51V, too and from the handlebar switch 51V and to the controller 51V until it shuts down. I have 51V each side of the main fuse and I have 51V supply onto the relay until it switches off. If I connect the battery -ve to the relay it holds in for a short time and then drops out. I've jumped out the handlebar switch to eliminate that with the same result as before.
Obviously the battery charger error is a worry but given the battery is showing 51V consistently can I eliminate it or should I focus on that? I know these are rated at 48V so is 51V too much?
Can anyone suggest what I could/should test next?
I don't like to be beaten but a bit stumped at the minute!
In some ways I'm with jon v8, I went to the show when it was at Malvern then when it moved to Telford so like alot of you I have seen it grow and improve. I missed going in 2012 and in truth in 2013 nothing much had changed from 2011!
That said for my £12 I saw lots of people I knew, had a natter with them in the warm & dry about old bikes and was able to speak at length with Jean Caillou about his ex.works Hondas which was totally fascinating and what a nice guy!
Given the turnout on Saturday- packed out and no-where left to park, I'd say that Alan Wright identified a real demand and the show is firmly established. All credit to him for building it to what it is now, I'm sure he could change it but why should he?
Had a long term problem with my Armstrong tank leaking by the headstock due to damage from fitting and removing the tank over the years. Bought some epoxy resin from My linkcleaned the tank out using acetone and patched the leak, allowed it to cure, filled tank with fuel prior to Sammy Miller round- result fuel leaking from everywhere and no ride! Obviously acetone had done too good a job! So did the job again but properly, washed tank out, put an old fuel tap into tap threads to protect them and then filled the tank with significant quantity of resin (enough to coat all surfaces and let excess run out filler hole) swishing the resin in the tank to coat it. I'm very happy with the result, I'm lead to believe the resin will resist ethanol but I haven't seen that in writing so I won't guarantee it, but previous sealents I tried from reputable motorcycle parts outlets were definitely attacked by the the fuel and I have gummed up OKO carb to proove it! The tanks are Kevlar but I think that refers to the cloth/fibre used in the construction of the tank rather than a coating or treatment applied to a standard GRP material.
Seth29 obviously if you have an ex. works machine with a leaking tank the bike is of no value and you should sell it to me immediately! Be very interested to know a bit more about the 'works mods'.
I can't speak about the Bultaco barrel but on the Hiro the slots you're refering to are additional transfer ports. The length of the slots corresponds more or less to the distance from the piston skirt to the bottom of the holes in the piston, both of the slots terminate in the barrel at the same level as the top of the transfer ports. Regarding the fuel having nowhere to go, the slots and holes are postitioned to operate at the same time as the normal transfer ports but with the bottom or top of the slots timed to be sealed by the piston skirt or piston top so I'm sure it does go somewhere although maybe not that efficiently. With respect to Hiro engines, the late Aprilias and Mk3 Armstrongs are ported in this way to give smoother power (according to the sales speak of the day!). I have always suspected that Bultaco & Hiro/Sammy Miller/Armstrong etc. have more than a little in common.
Excellent clips, I notice the complete absence of minders/mechanics/team managers & general hangers on, truly a test of man & machine against the sections.
There are kick start shafts made from a higher grade of steel available for these from Italy now, kick start pinions are a bit scarce but in reality I'd be more concerned about stuff like the tank & plastics than the engine these days. I've only ridden a mono Garelli but couple of mates locally have ridden the twin shocks and rate them highly, they were developed at the very end of the twin shock era so almost as much as a fiddle as a Fantic!
Separate gearbox - they started off copying Sherco and they have ended up copying Villiers! Whatever next side valve............................oh I'll get my coat.
Hiro engine aside Armstrongs are just made up out of the '80's european trials bike parts bin, marzocchi forks, grimeca hubs etc, so nothing too difficult to source if it's basically sound.
Aprillia used Hiro engines but I am unaware of them owning or buying Hiro. Spares can be obtained from Italy, PM me with what you are after or if you need any help. Given that you have bought a Can Am version of an Armstrong are you in the US or Canada?
I'm certain it would be an Amal, Rotax or Hiro engine, I know the later aluminium framed mono's definitely had the Rotax engine with an Amal carb because I had one. As to a replacement, I think 27mm Amals are difficult to come by and anyway I'd be tempted towards the Dellorto route as fitted to an Aprillia or an OKO and sus it out myself.
PM is a private message (I think). If you click on BOSTIT it gives you an option to send me a message rather than it being posted for all to see (I think).
Sounds like you need to look a little deeper as to the engine faults, but the parts are obtainable. Shocks are pretty easy to come by, the bash plate is a more difficult one, I don't have a 250 so i can't help with a patern as the 320 is a different design. PM me if and when you need help with the engine parts. Simon
I'm not in either Dave, from my conversations today only one of the Midland entrants seems to have made it so far, bet you can guess who it is as well!
Thanks for that, setting the float height is as I expected but by 45Deg do you mean you tilt the carb body over so less of the float weight rests on the spring loaded float needle? I take it that if you increase the height to 21mm you are effectively reducing the level of fuel on the float bowl? Appreciate your help.
Neo, can you explain how you are setting the float height, 21mm measured from where? The float needle is sprung so do you compress it or with it lightly touching? I'm using a 26mm OKO and the bike seems to richen up when pointing down hill as you describe.
The centre box is welded up but does contain packing. The box contains a centre perferated tube which tapers to the small outlet end of the box so this is the end to cut off, repack with new packing, don't over pack it, and weld the end back on. You will find it goes and sounds much, much better after.
Hi Iain interested to read this thread, I am some way down this process as I have already have an Armstrong which uses a 26mm Dellorto and have also used a Mikuni VM26. If your Armstrong still uses the standard middle box on the exhaust the Dellorto will not fit between the frame rails and the exhaust easily and the choke is difficult to operate. I made a shorter inlet pipe to move the carb forward but then aquired a bike with a custom middle box and used the Dellorto on that one. Then I started to look at the Mikuni for the sandard bike. There is no doubt in my mind that the Mikuni transforms the running of the bike but there is a snag, the air screw is on the right hand side of the bike and is very difficult to get to to set up. I've also been playing about with pilot jet sizes so I'm not there yet with the Mikuni! I'm planning to try the OKO next but what choke size would you go for (26mm or 28mm) and will it fit in the frame or will it foul like the Dellorto? My final thought is I doubt you'll get a new 27mm Amal, when I priced them (26mm) they were very expensive and any of the carbs I've listed above give as good if not better performance than the Amal.
Leaving the Phil Alderson issue aside I wonder how fair returning to the 'Strict SSDT Rules' is to the clubman. From my experience in 1995 & 2005 the better riders can always gain time through the day due to better speed accross the moors, fitness etc.etc. If we return to strict rules I suspect that if their bike can't be fixed by them in park ferme it will disapear into the back of a van during the day and will emerge better than it was when it went in and the time loss will be minimal. Joe clubman on the other hand will return from a day doing sections which are beyond them on a bent bike only to find more pressure at the end and start of each day.
I do not disagree with the sentiment of the SSDT being a reliability trial but added to the current severity of the sections, unsuitablity of modern trials bikes for big daily mileages, I fear the bottom end of the entry would end up finding it even harder to finish.
Can anyone point me in the direction of either someone who will set a S22 Villiers carb up for an Ariel or what I'd need to do to one myself to use it?
Dead Oset 20R
in OSET Electric Trials Bikes
Posted
looks like 13 cells with a bms.