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paxdad

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Everything posted by paxdad

  1. Copemech, Hold tight as I may take you up on the offer in lieu of taking mine off which has untold amount of RTV around it. I was going on spring break first week in April and my son was not going to ride so timing to take it off was good.
  2. Enough said.... I am just a hack that has access to a full machine shop with a lot of professional machinist. I think they like to watch me try things for entertainment. Since I am the VP of Safety they only let it go so far as not to hurt myself or someone else! I like to think it helps me have a better understanding of what they do and the hazards associated with the craft.
  3. paxdad

    [[

    Yes that is correct. If you inspect the rubber tip you will probably see a slight ridge that runs aroung the entire rubber needle tip just below the very end. This ridge is wear caused from the seat and most likely incompatiablity with ethanol fuel. The steel seats are unaffected by ethanol. If you call RYP they have the correct needle and seat i believe that it is a 200 needle & seat (part #D10305x200 "alchohol") rated part. They are sold toghether.
  4. I will try and accomodate added space on the inside however the give up is the increased external dimension in relation to where the shift lever is oriented to the cover as this has a bevel angle to it.
  5. Based on the block size to start with the Swarf will rapidly pile up. Have you ever seen a solid wheel made? The amount of residual milling is crazy. Hopefully will start on it the first week in April.
  6. I am getting ready to CNC/machine a T-6061 flywheel cover for my 04 125. My stock plastic cover is distored and requires RTV to seal it up with the o-ring in place. I will use the existing plastic cover for the root file dimensions. Since this will be made under CNC I will probably produce at least 3 or 4 additional pieces depending on spare time at work. However, I want to see if these are available in the aftermarket space. I don't seem to be able to find any out there on the internet. If available can you tell me where you have seen them avialibe in the US? Thanks.
  7. paxdad

    [[

    I just rebuilt my 04 125 (it was seized when I purchased it) and used RYP for parts and other information. Given the issue of the fuel in the bottom end I highly recommed that you verify if your fuel needle seat has a rubber tip. If so contact RYP and purchase the brass needle and seat. After my rebuild I filled the crank case with fuel twice while trying to hop around in the driveway and came to the quick conclusion that the needle was worn and the up and down motion of hoping/ general riding was making the issue worse. Replaced the needle and seat and problem solved. Unfortunately I had to buy a stator/ flywheel shortly after this which was rather expensive.
  8. See photos below of the choke lever with zip ty modification. Very high tech
  9. Curious about the temperature when it kicks on????
  10. Actually it does not hurt the boots at all and helps me grip the frame. The tape does wear fairly quickly though but is easy to replace.
  11. 1. Spin the fan by hand and see if it is hitting on the ty wrap that hold some of the wires as if it slides down slightly the fan blade could be hitting the ty wrap when the fan blades flex slightly. 2. For the choke fix. (I saw this in a photo that someone had on here). Drill a small hole in the choke lever (toward the end) and then put a small ty wrap through the hole. Pull the ty wrap tight. The tag end of the ty wrap makes it easy to pull the choke lever back down without having to take off gloves or fish your finger up and behind the lever to turn it off. If this does not make sense let me know and I will post a photo.
  12. I actually used a piece of 3M non-skid tape cut to size. The type you use on steps etc. Make a template from the old pieces and cut them out accordingly. I have also used skate board grip tape as well on my MX bikes.
  13. Ok I seem to have everything sorted out on the my 04 125 rebuild and everthing is running fine. This is my first trials bike. I purchased it with a seized motor so I have no idea what the fan did before. My question is, at what frequecy should the fan cycle on and off? My fan comes on a couple times every minute under normal low speed riding etc. Does anyone know what temp the fan switch/ sensor is set at which activates the fan?? I don't have any overflow out of the vent tube on the radiator cap etc. Just checking to make sure this is the norm.
  14. Leaning the Vmar direction. My son was riding it yesterday and bent the handle bars in a fall. Doesnt matter as I bought and built the bike to be ridden. Since this is my first trials bike the bent bars would have driven me crazy on my Mx bikes but somehow I don't seem to pay that much attention to the tweak in them as I am having too much fun on it just trying to balance!!!
  15. Great idea but the time consumed in making the determination of where to drill the hole in relation to where the oil level is would not be the best time spent. My dad always instructed me to "measure twice and drill once"!!!! This is one of those instances where it is probably not the best idea unless you have a lot of money to purchase side covers for trial and error.
  16. Appreciate the generous offer. Let me know how much postage you need and I will follow up with you. My postal (zip) code is 30041 if that helps with postage calculation.
  17. paxdad

    Chain life

    IMO a mid-grade 520 (Regina or Renthal) chain should last a couple of years depending on the amount of use and the amount of sprocket wear. I have usually had to replace the rear sprocket before the chain if it is aluminum. Again there are quite a few variables that dictate the life of the chain. I once had a Sidewinder chain that I won at a race and ran it for 2 years on a 450 MX bike which had 150 hours of use. I put it on the bike when it was new along with the hour meter!!!! I kept it clean and used WD-40 to displace the water after each wash. I usually check the chain wear/ stretch by pulling the chain back from the rear sprocket and if it pulls back where you can see space greater tan 1/4 of the space between the teeth i consider it worn out.
  18. Not a member yet. This is my first trials bike and just finished rebuilding the motor and getting some electrical issues worked out. I have a couple of buddies that are just starting as well so I am sure our paths will cross eventually as they have been to a couple of STRA events already. My name is Reid by the way.
  19. Call Herdan in Pennsylvania. I bet they can assist with any Dellorto part you need. 610-562-3155.
  20. Now that I have everything sorted out and running good on my 04 125 what are my options available to run oversize bars? Triple Clamp? Who has them? Bar Clamps? Who has them that work with the fixed mounts on the 04?
  21. Update (praying this is the last one): Received and installed new stator and flywheel from RYP (somehow RYP does not sell stator only like SplatShop). Bike runs perfect!!! It seems like it is also running cooler as the fan does not cycle on near as frequently as it was with the old stator. Still need to verify it is working though. Upon removal and inspection of the old stator there was a nick in one of the white wires so I am not sure if this was grounding out or what. As you can imagine I did not want to fix this wire reinstall with all the other components (coolant, radiator, exh header, etc.) only to still have the issue and have to pull it apart again. In any event she is running and I can now ride it with my son!!!! Thanks for all the replies.
  22. Udate: Pulled flywheel and woodruff key is not sheared in any way. Time for a stator....
  23. Update: Received the new coil from RYP and installed accordingly. Same symptoms.... Talked to RYP today and need to verify if flywheel key has sheared or not. Wouldn't you know it my puller is at my buds shop. RYP was very generous to offer a refund on the coil since that was not the problem. I am going to keep it as having a spare is not a bad idea. I did test the stator per the SplatShop instructions and all the test show my stator to be good. The readings were on the low side of what SplatShop has posted but they were all within range. The other thing I have noticed is that the bike starts with an obvious kick back whereas when it was running good I did not notice this.....more to follow.
  24. Update: Talked with RYP. New coil on its way. Will post again once installed. Fingers crossed.
  25. Update: I received the new needle and seat from RYP along with a new gasket kit for the PHBL(BS)26. Installed and started bike. Bike started with a high idle and would not adjust out with the idle screw. Note: Idle screw had no effect on bike. Turned off bike and checked for obvious air leaks etc. but none found. Started bike back up and proceeded to check electrical connections. I messed around with the yellow wire from fan radiator hose sensor and all of a sudden bike would idle normal. Checked all connections and appeared good. Adjusted idle screw and bike was running great on the stand. Turned bike off went in and ate lunch, came back out started bike again and it would only idle roughly with signs of running rich by looking at the exhaust emission. When you go to feed it fuel it will not rev and only sounds like it is getting intermitent spark. When you feed it fuel it sounds like blub, blub, blub. Hopefully you get what I mean..... I checked all the wire for continuity and they appear good along with the connections. Kill switch is fine as bike will run with out it connected. Stumped!!!!! Additional thoughts???? What is the proper float level adjustment? I think that it is level when the seat is fully closed correct but if not would this cause the bike to run rich immediately off idle?
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