ivorybull

Hi I've recently bought a CT 250 SC Silk Road which is almost identical to the CL 250 SC. I have been told the engine is the same as the XL250 and CB 250 RS of the early 80's. Can anyone confirm this and is it the same engine as the TL250? As the CT250Sc is a rare bike in the UK parts are not listed as often as the supposed sister bikes so it would be good to know that I can get parts for the engine based on the other bikes. Its in very good condition with 14k on the clock but the engine smokes which I have been told is likely to be the Valve stem seals or possible a broken ring. Need to start getting some parts soon so any info welcome. Thanks Iain Picture of similar bike attached

Hi Rich Yes mine looked just like that. It was in really good condition and worth the money. I could not see any difference between the old one an the new one apart from the colour as they come painted black. I never resolved my kick start issues and due to having too many other projects sold it on to someone else. The only area I would check on the crank case cover is the distance between the crank case and the cover internal flange where the kickstart goes. I'm 99.9% certain it was identical but just worth checking as this could cause an issue. Regards Iain

Andy Finally got the crankcase split last night. You were right I had also missed the screw behind the gear shift mechanism which was covered in grease. The rear engine mount was also corroded and a real pain in the rear to get apart but as the case is going in the bin I didn't need to worry too much about keeping it pristine so managed to gently lever it apart. Thanks for the tips. Now for the swap over and rebuild Iain

How did you hold the case in place when you tapped it. If you protect the crank shaft and tap the end it should push the cases apart but I was struggling to hold the front part of the case still when tapping the shaft to push them apart.

Do you use a crankcase splitting tool or use the Haynes Manual method of taping the crank shaft? I'm thinking of making up a tool to pull it apart rather than risking damage.

That's brilliant, way better than the Haynes. Thanks

Any tips on splitting a TY175 crankcase. Its being a bit difficult and the Haynes manual is not very helpful!

My piston dimensions 67mm so its a 175. I wonder if it means its 1.25mm oversized making it 67.25mm Its got Japan 2A700 IKYP marked on the inside

I have just stripped my TY 175 engine down so I can change the damaged crank case and on cleaning the carbon of the top of the piston I noticed it has 125 stamped on the top. I bought the bike as a box of bits which the previous owner had dismantled. The frame and engine numbers don't match so I am wondering if a 125 head and piston have been fitted at some time or dose the 125 stand for something else. The good thing is that the piston and cylinder are in tip top condition. Can anyone shed any light on this?? Iain

Does anyone know if a DT250MX engine will fit in a TY175 frame?

Hi Jonny No, still having problems. Not had much time recently but I put all the new shims in and then had an adjustment issue with the clutch which I resolved last night but the kickstart mechanism is still difficult. I put it all together last night and it was still not smooth then it locked up. When I opened it up again I found the outer circlip holding the idle kickstart gear had some how come off (god knows how) so the idler gear was moving back and forward. Starting to think that I might be better off sourcing another engine. There is a DT175 engine on ebay at the moment which I presume would fit??? Iain

You probably need a new cable, the one you have may have stretched. I've been restoring a TY175 and the cable which looked OK had too much play. Got a new one from Trail and Trials (www.tytrials.co.uk). Works fine now

Thanks Jonny, I've PM'ed you with my details. Iain

I took the kick start shaft out again tonight and have had a good look at it. All the pieces seem to be in place but there is a white nylon collar on the shaft which holds the spring spacer in place which does not show up on the drawings, but there is no circlip (14 in the haynes manual) or a groove for the circlip to fit into. It does say the circlip is on early ty 175 models. The spring is OK and located, the spring spacer is there, the large washer is there, the collar and circlip to hold the cog in place, friction clip renewed. Should there be a spacer after the spring spacer, if not should the spring spacer sit tight up against the outer case cover? If not what holds the kick start shaft tight into the crank case socket? Does anyone know? Iain

Thanks Jonny I agree, I think I need to start from first principles and make sure everything is put together properly. I have a Haynes Manual so will chack everything is correctly positioned. When I bought the bike it had been dismantled and was in crates with the side cases, clutch and kickstart removed. I presumed the kickstart shaft had not been tampered with, it looks right with no wear but maybe someone has had it apart and made a mistake. Or maybe the kickstart shaft I have is not for a TY175! Iain

Hi, The bike is being restored so all the bits have been apart and reasembled. The spring seems fine, located and working. The shaft has no signs of wear. The spacer disc, plastic sheeth is there, all seems ok. But the hole shaft when assembled can slide in and out.

I am still having trouble with my kick start locking and not returning. Should the kick start shaft (and kick start lever) be able to move in and out by approx 1/2 inch. When the kick start does not return I need to tap it with my boot and knock it back into the cranck case a bit then it returns. Is this usual or am I missing a spacer?

After struggling to get a TY175 clutch cover or any of the alternatives recommended and being quoted up to

Hi Alan I'm really confused. The pin runs all the way through the crank case but it will only come out one side as far as I can see. The left hand side has the arm which is connected to the clutch cable. There is no hole for the pin to come out this side unless I have missed something? I have the ball bearings, three in total, one came with the new pushrod kit and two were in the hole where the rod should go. I got these out with a small dab of super glue on the end of a stick but I could not get the remaining piece of rod out using the same method. Iain

I have already stripped out the clutch plates so I could see the hole where the rod goes in. I have an end rod which is approx. 2" long with a flat end that pushes against the pressure plate. When this is placed in the hole it does not touch the clutch pushrod mechanism which is still in there. I've stripped out the clutch arm on the left of the bike and can see the end of a rod poking out when I push a rod through from the clutch plate side, but I can't get it to come out. If I could get it out I reckon the new longer pushrod would fit and the clutch would work properly. I don't really fancy splitting the crankcase just to sort this out but if that's the only way I will have to do it.

When I bought my TY175 for restoration the clutch pushrod was missing. I bought a new one from Trail and Trials only to find it was too long. It looks like there is a piece of the old rod still inside the housing. I have tried everything to get it out but it won't shift. I can't see any way of pushing it through from the back. Any ideas or advice? As a temporary measure I have installed an inch long peice of bar that makes up the difference and the clutch works OK. Iain

Based on my TY175 and pictures of TY125's I've seen the spark plug is normally central and vertical. Never seen a decompressor on a TY before, but I am a novice on TY's?

Whilst looking for a new clutch cover for my TY175 I came across this on ebay. Looks like a TY engine but it has two spark plugs. Is this a common engine? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280614254910&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

I bought the DT 125 crankcase cover and tried it today. It looks identical but does not fit!!!! The holes are in slightly different places, some line up but a couple don't. Back to the search for another case......

Thanks for the advise, I cracked my case so I'm looking for a replacement. Hopefully the DT125 will do the job. I would attach a picture of it if I could work out how???