Jump to content

mrshells

Members
  • Posts

    19
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by mrshells
 
 
  1. Hi

    today my sons 125 pro sounded like it jumped out of 4th gear while climing a steep hill at speed

    it now makes a rattling noise in 1st and 4th gears

    obviously Im gonna have to split the cases to have a look

    but does anyone have any pointers in any direction before I open it up ?

    thanks in advance

    also the parts catalogue list gears for 2/5 3/6 5/6

    but nothing for 1st or 4th ???

  2. I think you will find its for pushing the crank out, if you want to make one just measure the two cast in holes that the two screws fit into and put a hole in the middle and tap it for a bolt. put the crank in the freezer and heat the casing and bearing as mentioned and the crank should fall back in...well it did on mine.

    Thanks Andy

    but the bearing should be fitted into the case first

    then the crank pulled into the bearing

    by the book the case should be evenly heated to i think 200 deg

    and the bearing frozen then it should drop in

    the the crank should be drawn into the bearing

    if you put the bearing on the crank then beat it into the case your are actually pressing the outer in to the case using the balls between the inner and outer

    I have to make a puller Im getting a bit anal i admit but this little TY is very special to me :)

  3. The Yamaha manual for the TY175 show a specific puller for pulling the crank into the left hand case

    does anyone have dimensions or a photograpgh of one

    it looks fairly simple to make from the line drawing in the book

    but it would be nice to have some measurements

    :thumbup:

  4. When you refit the crank in the left hand side of the cases as you know a shim is placed on and then the crank shaft is knocked or pressed in, it should be a tight fit so from that point it should not float. I think the other shim on the other end should be of a size so that when the other half of the case is fitted there should be minimal gap should float occur, personally I would be looking for about a 3 or 4 thou potential gap if possible, but how you would be able to measure any float with one end fixed it would not be possible unless the crank moves which it should not. I do know that sometimes you have to give the drive end a sharp blow with a mallet to push the crank across to clear the flywheel from the back plate when fitting electronic ignition, so its a known thing that it should be static under normal conditions.

    Thanks again Andy

    Ive ordered genuine rod kit and seals today probably wont get chance to go see the crank builder in derby till next week so watch this space Ill keep you informed

    john

  5. See HEREand download either section 3 PDF that relates to the engine, or the rest also for ref.

    Page 93 is what you want to know.

    I saved off the Yamaha Sport the parts list, this item is the shims as:

    132-11561-00-03 SHIM, CRANK (25.5-35-0.3) U. R.

    132-11561-00-05 SHIM, CRANK (25.5-35-0.5) 1

    136-11561-00-03 SHIM, CRANK (20-30-0.3)

    136-11561-00-04 SHIM, CRANK (20-30-0.4) U. R.

    136-11561-00-05 SHIM, CRANK (20-30-0.5)

    136-11561-00-06 SHIM, CRANK (20-30-0.6)

    136-11561-00-07 SHIM, CRANK (20-30-0.7)

    These part numbers may differ per country, as these are for Nth America

    Thanks for that

    I have the shim sizes and I know where to put them

    but what i dont know is how much clearance should be and how to measure it

    the crank is assembled with the aid of a puller into the bearing which has allredy been fitted into the left side case.

    There is a shim on both sides of the crank between the crank cheek and the bearing.

    The crank is technically in a fixed lateral position in the left case and any expansion is all transferred to movement in and out of the right side case

    I can measure the inside of the cases when the crank is removed

    and I can measure the crank at the assembly point

    but what i dont know is what size clearance there should be so i can work out what size shims are neede

    does that make sense ?

  6. not sure if this info is what you want but when the crank is pressed the measurement shown as D in the book should be 55.90 to 55.96 mm which should give you the correct float and the correct gap on the con rod, if its pressed too tight or too loose then that's where you end up getting problems. I am still amazed that's the problem as my old crank and con rod and little ends were well worn and had a worn piston with a broken ring and the engine really didn't sound bad at all.

    Ive seen some bads ones as well Andy

    Its gotta be done again its really bad and Im really P****d off

    not the cost, thats insignificant really its the fact it needs doing again

    Im the second owner of this bike Ive known it from new its only done 1100 miles in 35 years

    Im quite attached to it.

    but when i reinstate the crank its gotta be right

    I have the measurements thankyou

    but if the new rod kit with spacers is installed and the width of the crank pressed to 55.90 min tolerance

    and clearance between the rod and the crank web is still .5mm (more than max )

    which is more important ?

    getting the end float on the big end right

    then everything gets pulled inwards from the points end of the crank effectivly making the crank to narrow for the cases

    the other question is whats the best rod to use ?

  7. Never done that particular bike but...

    You can put a dial indicator on the shaft and pull it in and out (same as you did to notice the endplay) and add shims, or you can put on too many shims and put the cases together.

    They'll rock because they won't close completely.

    Then remove shims one at a time until they stop rocking.

    That's zero endplay.

    Then remove the amount of shim equal to the recommended endplay.

    Sorry Charlie the question was rhetorical

    My manual shows a shim on either side of the crank between the crank cheek and the bearing

    when installing the crank to clutch drive gear the retaining nut pulls the crank tight against the right side bearing so there is no physical movement of the crank to the left or right

    I have managed to find the part number for the shims but they are an obsolite part which itself is not a major problem as i can get sheet shim and make them

    I just dont know hwhat size to make them

  8. after extensive investigation the cranks F***** !!

    deflection a little end should be 0.8-1.0 mm ive got a whopping 3mm

    this is on a crank rebuilt by Grampians in Liverpool who have done many cranks for me in the past

    but not in the future !!

    its only had 10 hours at the most since rebuild

    having sat and read through the haynes manual

    on page 56 it has an exploded veiw of the crank

    parts 13 and 19 are shims and the manual states "as Required" but I can find no reference of a measurement that would tell me how thick the shims need to be

    Also looking on TYtrail UK website the parts list and diagram there does nor show or list shims ?

    so how does one set the endfloat on the crank when installing it ????

  9. Dave Hodgkinson at Derby 01332 677720

    thanks ill give him a call

    wow hes a guy who knows his stuff

    needles to say he will be doing it

    thanks again

  10. after extensive investigation the cranks F***** !!

    deflection a little end should be 0.8-1.0 mm ive got a whopping 3mm

    this is on a crank rebuilt by Grampians in Liverpool who have done many cranks for me in the past

    but not in the future !!

    its only had 10 hours at the most since rebuild

  11. Yes this was a real knock on my bike and it was running very hot, was not the usual pinking noise, you will probably want to give the carb a real good clean theres a few air passage ways that connect with the pilot mixture.check the float bowl level and be sure the bowl is filling up to the correct level. just a thought when the bike is knocking try and give it some choke and see if it improves the noise, if it does then its running weak for whatever reason.

    thanks Andy

    Im going to give it a good looking at in the morning

    Im sure it will end up being something simple but its just annoying after have sourced a piston and having the crank re built it still knocks

    Ive had a listen with a screwdriver stuck in my earbut I cant even narrow it down

    other than is does sound like top end but is cant be as its all new !!!

    I can see it coming off tomorrow

    John

  12. Ill have a look at the carb in the morning

    Its not pinking its definatley a knock

    seriously it sounds like a diesel

    Im going to order an O ring kit anyway as none of them have ever been changed

  13. Ok i get the idea

    it sounds mechanical hence the reason I had it Rebored and had the crank rebuilt

    at idle its there all the time

    but it does seem to go away when de-accelerating

    also above approx 25mph it appears to be not doing it

    it actually seems to get quiter the faster i ride it

    the annoying thing is its sound like wristpin or crank which is why i had it rebuilt but

    the noise is still the same and it runs great it just knocks

    I was asked yesterday if i was running on diesel ???

    Im just trying to figure out how to start the engine after Ive taken off the clutch basket so i can eliminate crank and piston, I might start it with my windy ratchet later today

  14. I really need some help with my TY175

    it started knocking a while ago so i had the top end off and fitted new little end gudgeon pin and piston rings,

    this made no difference what so ever !!

    So I sent it away for a rebore and crank build which was done with a NOS Hepolite piston with dykes rings as it should be

    and a new conrod and all the bearings

    when i got it back together it still knock as bad as before maybe a little worse !!

    can anyone give me a clue as to what to look for ?

    And please dont say they all do that cos they dont and this one never used to

    I was a a comp today with a guy whose TY was silent

  15. My son has just bought himself a 2004 TXT125 pro

    the bike is absolutley mint

    having only been used for 4 hours

    I know its sounds unbelievable but i know the previous owner who just never used it

    anyway Im after some advice setting the rear shock up so he can get the best bounce from it

    how do i go about it ? also do I need to do anything to the forks ?

 
×
  • Create New...