I think you will find its for pushing the crank out, if you want to make one just measure the two cast in holes that the two screws fit into and put a hole in the middle and tap it for a bolt. put the crank in the freezer and heat the casing and bearing as mentioned and the crank should fall back in...well it did on mine.
Thanks Andy
but the bearing should be fitted into the case first
then the crank pulled into the bearing
by the book the case should be evenly heated to i think 200 deg
and the bearing frozen then it should drop in
the the crank should be drawn into the bearing
if you put the bearing on the crank then beat it into the case your are actually pressing the outer in to the case using the balls between the inner and outer
I have to make a puller Im getting a bit anal i admit but this little TY is very special to me
When you refit the crank in the left hand side of the cases as you know a shim is placed on and then the crank shaft is knocked or pressed in, it should be a tight fit so from that point it should not float. I think the other shim on the other end should be of a size so that when the other half of the case is fitted there should be minimal gap should float occur, personally I would be looking for about a 3 or 4 thou potential gap if possible, but how you would be able to measure any float with one end fixed it would not be possible unless the crank moves which it should not. I do know that sometimes you have to give the drive end a sharp blow with a mallet to push the crank across to clear the flywheel from the back plate when fitting electronic ignition, so its a known thing that it should be static under normal conditions.
Thanks again Andy
Ive ordered genuine rod kit and seals today probably wont get chance to go see the crank builder in derby till next week so watch this space Ill keep you informed
See HEREand download either section 3 PDF that relates to the engine, or the rest also for ref.
Page 93 is what you want to know.
I saved off the Yamaha Sport the parts list, this item is the shims as:
132-11561-00-03 SHIM, CRANK (25.5-35-0.3) U. R.
132-11561-00-05 SHIM, CRANK (25.5-35-0.5) 1
136-11561-00-03 SHIM, CRANK (20-30-0.3)
136-11561-00-04 SHIM, CRANK (20-30-0.4) U. R.
136-11561-00-05 SHIM, CRANK (20-30-0.5)
136-11561-00-06 SHIM, CRANK (20-30-0.6)
136-11561-00-07 SHIM, CRANK (20-30-0.7)
These part numbers may differ per country, as these are for Nth America
Thanks for that
I have the shim sizes and I know where to put them
but what i dont know is how much clearance should be and how to measure it
the crank is assembled with the aid of a puller into the bearing which has allredy been fitted into the left side case.
There is a shim on both sides of the crank between the crank cheek and the bearing.
The crank is technically in a fixed lateral position in the left case and any expansion is all transferred to movement in and out of the right side case
I can measure the inside of the cases when the crank is removed
and I can measure the crank at the assembly point
but what i dont know is what size clearance there should be so i can work out what size shims are neede
not sure if this info is what you want but when the crank is pressed the measurement shown as D in the book should be 55.90 to 55.96 mm which should give you the correct float and the correct gap on the con rod, if its pressed too tight or too loose then that's where you end up getting problems. I am still amazed that's the problem as my old crank and con rod and little ends were well worn and had a worn piston with a broken ring and the engine really didn't sound bad at all.
Ive seen some bads ones as well Andy
Its gotta be done again its really bad and Im really P****d off
not the cost, thats insignificant really its the fact it needs doing again
Im the second owner of this bike Ive known it from new its only done 1100 miles in 35 years
Im quite attached to it.
but when i reinstate the crank its gotta be right
I have the measurements thankyou
but if the new rod kit with spacers is installed and the width of the crank pressed to 55.90 min tolerance
and clearance between the rod and the crank web is still .5mm (more than max )
which is more important ?
getting the end float on the big end right
then everything gets pulled inwards from the points end of the crank effectivly making the crank to narrow for the cases
You can put a dial indicator on the shaft and pull it in and out (same as you did to notice the endplay) and add shims, or you can put on too many shims and put the cases together.
They'll rock because they won't close completely.
Then remove shims one at a time until they stop rocking.
That's zero endplay.
Then remove the amount of shim equal to the recommended endplay.
Sorry Charlie the question was rhetorical
My manual shows a shim on either side of the crank between the crank cheek and the bearing
when installing the crank to clutch drive gear the retaining nut pulls the crank tight against the right side bearing so there is no physical movement of the crank to the left or right
I have managed to find the part number for the shims but they are an obsolite part which itself is not a major problem as i can get sheet shim and make them
after extensive investigation the cranks F***** !!
deflection a little end should be 0.8-1.0 mm ive got a whopping 3mm
this is on a crank rebuilt by Grampians in Liverpool who have done many cranks for me in the past
but not in the future !!
its only had 10 hours at the most since rebuild
having sat and read through the haynes manual
on page 56 it has an exploded veiw of the crank
parts 13 and 19 are shims and the manual states "as Required" but I can find no reference of a measurement that would tell me how thick the shims need to be
Also looking on TYtrail UK website the parts list and diagram there does nor show or list shims ?
so how does one set the endfloat on the crank when installing it ????
Yes this was a real knock on my bike and it was running very hot, was not the usual pinking noise, you will probably want to give the carb a real good clean theres a few air passage ways that connect with the pilot mixture.check the float bowl level and be sure the bowl is filling up to the correct level. just a thought when the bike is knocking try and give it some choke and see if it improves the noise, if it does then its running weak for whatever reason.
thanks Andy
Im going to give it a good looking at in the morning
Im sure it will end up being something simple but its just annoying after have sourced a piston and having the crank re built it still knocks
Ive had a listen with a screwdriver stuck in my earbut I cant even narrow it down
other than is does sound like top end but is cant be as its all new !!!
it sounds mechanical hence the reason I had it Rebored and had the crank rebuilt
at idle its there all the time
but it does seem to go away when de-accelerating
also above approx 25mph it appears to be not doing it
it actually seems to get quiter the faster i ride it
the annoying thing is its sound like wristpin or crank which is why i had it rebuilt but
the noise is still the same and it runs great it just knocks
I was asked yesterday if i was running on diesel ???
Im just trying to figure out how to start the engine after Ive taken off the clutch basket so i can eliminate crank and piston, I might start it with my windy ratchet later today
124 txt pro nosiy 1st and 4th
in Gas Gas
Posted
just got the motor out and i can feel some thing out of place in 1st and 4th
will split the cases tomorrow