I'm sure you know that the 320, like all the other 4T's was originally developed for environment conservation reasons (2T's were going to be abolished) and the smooth delivery of power was/is well suited to Trials.
But it was a more expensive engine/bike that weighed more and did not have quite as much power as the 290....The price alone made it less popular but I believe that popularity has nothing to do with "a Good bike" or "a Bad bike" of my choosing.
Well apart for the sharper clutch action it soaks into the clutch plates. Later (when you want a smoother clutch lol!) you'll have to replace those plates to give you back a smooth action.
If none of this is a big deal then no worry but I've had quite a bit of success running Synthetic 5w30
Castrol 5w30 Edge Sport ... or ...Nulon 5w30 "Long Life Diesel and Petrol Oil"
Riding most days over 3 years I've proved that I get minimal gear wear when I use these oils (no silver or grey in waste oil) so I'm sticking with these
I hated he "bend-it-trick" but sometimes it's necessary.....if it's possible.
Assuming you need to get the old nipple out may as well make a decent job of it. Also if you dab some Anti Seize on the thread (each spoke thread in fact) it won't happen again. So do it good now so you can forget it later lol!
Yep it's been a long time. I can count on one hand how many times I've ridden my bike these past two years (since moving house) so I need something exciting to tempt me back to frequent riding. Was hoping that Sherco could do some magic in 2014.... but maybe next year
You take care mate.... "I'll be back" ... one day!!!
ALSO - If the crank seals were to have gone, would I not pick this up in a compression test rather than having to rip the engine apart to find? Just wondering if it's easy to diagnose?
Not unless the seals are very, very bad.... A leak down test is better but still no guarantees..... And I must admit that I actually spent more time preforming a leak-down test than I did changing the seals lol!!
My understanding is based more on personal experience than anything else. As I said I spent a LOT of time trying to fix the hunting but but it came back every time. I was using 98 (with a small Pilot jet) and I didn't want to change that because it gave more zap and power.
I had read on numerous occasions that a larger Pilot cures hunting but you can't do that on 98 because it runs far too rich. And having a larger Pilot jet makes it less prone to carb blockages ....which really added to the confusion of tracking down my problem.
Hmmm... I assuming that RON (Research Octane Number) is a international standard?.... But if 95 is all you have access to then I guess you'll just have to work with that. In Aus we go from 91 to 98.
I'd also agree that giving Chris at Splat shop call is a good idea
Hey Steve, What float height did you end up with?.....I used Vitron seals when I did my Crank seals (not so cheap lol!) and removing the gear pinion on the clutch side can be a real bugger lol!!
I did all the same things as you plus a whole lot more .....with 3 different carbs too.
I can give no guarantees but have a go at using low octane fuel with a fully synthetic 2T oil (Like Castrol 2T Racing) then adjust the fuel mix (Dellorto) or air mix to run sweet when warmed up. Depending on past setup you may also need to go for a larger pilot jet too.
If the reeds were buggered your problem would be consistent .... And my guess is your having good days and bad days? .... Depending on the air pressure and humidity etc....
2010 Sherco
in Sherco
Posted
Looks pretty for sure ;-)