Hello, i have a TY175 that needs electronic ignition as the points need changing and i thought it best to do it once. Any suggestions or recommendations out there?
Me and a friend did mine, no high speed testing done so far but really good results and no issues since they were done a year ago (a few trials under my belt). Tried to find someone local in Bristol but draw a blank every time without spending a lot and waiting a while for the privilege...
Im needing to put a bantam engine together and i have some questions to help me just in the right direction, this is not a open cheque book build so no stupid suggestions but i have a set of 175 crank cases, a 175 barrel and piston, a 125 (i think) complete bottom end with a loose 125 head and barrel/
I was hoping the 125 bottom end internals would fit into the 175 crank cases so i can make it a 175 using the 175 barrel and reboring it to suit the TS175 piston that seems popular, my questions are will this work, is there any other mods to consider and im told i can use a montesa 200 head (as i dont have a 175 BSA one), is this a striaght swap? Whats the main advantage of the TS175 piston? i can get them cheap enough but whats the hype all about?
Any advise would be great. I dont seem to have much in the way of Left hand engine covers or magneto stuff so is there a way of getting around this easily?
im building a BSA Bantam D1 rigid trials bike and im at the stage of welding on some modern fold-able foot pegs to it. looking at where the pegs should go and the original ones are way too far forward, ive looked at my TY175 and they are now (after they have been moved back to improve balance aka Sammy miller type bolt on brackets) 25% from the rear axle and 75% from the front axle. Is there a magic measurement/percentage to give the best weight balance?
Any suggestions or photos of your own mod that works would be great!
bought one at the start of the year, wes manufacturing has been sold to a spainish guy and i dont think they are making them at the mo BUT TyTrials had a few left on the shelf, had to call them mind as they didnt list them on the website because supply was a issue for future orders.
No one else i tried had any or knew when more were going to be back in stock!
It may restrict ultimate power but i didnt notice much and its so so much lighter than the stock set up, compact and looks good, worth the money for sure.
im building a special using DT forks (DT175 I think) but wanting to use the TY175 front wheel, the wheel fits fit but the TY175 wheel has a brake plate on it thats secured by a steady arm (torque arm?) on to the fork leg where as the DT fork leg accepts a brake plate via a oblong cut out on the plate and corresponding oblong wedge on the base of the fork. Does anyone know of a front brake plate that fits a TY175 or 250 front wheel that has a cut out oblong shape the goes on to the front forks from another model, such as other TY's or DT's etc.
the other option is the use the DT wheel i have but its a chrome rim and not alloy or rebuild the DT hub into the TY wheel but this is a bit of a budget build up so a parts bin special solution will be better for me?
I am working on a D1 Bantam which has been converted to a rigid rear end, i want to increase the ground clearance and to my way of thinking, the best way to do it is basically cut the bottom of the frame off and weld it further up and thus moving the end up towards the tank etc. Has anyone got any suggestions or words of advise on this sort of thing.
I appreciate its not to everyone's taste but its a spare frame and the bike needs to be a bit more usable or the project will die a death in the corner of a garage unless some new life is breathed into it!
At the same time, we'll be improving the fork angle, any angles that are considered the "golden angle"?
Yes, I didn't complete the whole thing I'm afraid, came along with some friends who had some mechanical failures so they were looking bored and despondent on the side lines so as it was hot we finished early and went home for tea! Some sections had a few queues so I did what sections I could manage and we're quiet and called it a day.
Good day out as always, all I need now is some more practice and a lot of luck and I may start to improve my numbers!! Just starting to think about how to improve and get a better line through the section rather than just being happy to complete a section. Any comments good or bad are appreciated?
thanks Jon, i know its a bit bling but there you go, ever the tarts handbag!!! i know Mr Bowden so i'll give him a call.
on the Trial at Frys Bottom you said the next Bath Classic was cancelled but gave a alternative club running one on that day, ive forgotten who though, please refresh my bad memory?
Yes, the majesty billet yokes are indeed lovely, nothing against their kit because it is top notch and well worth the money, just a bit too much for my pockets at the moment.
does anyone know of a machine shop locally to Bristol or that can deal with the job or someone by post, to machine out standard top yoke bar clamps to the fat bar size, I think standards are 22mm (7/8")are and the fat bars comes in at 28.6mm (1 1/8")
Prefer to go by recommendation rather than hunting around and taking pot luck!!
ooooh, that puts me in my place doesn't it. Well im too old and wise to rise to such comments if they are aimed at me but for the record the bike didn't cost much at all to bike and build, I do it for the pleasure I get from it and what I write on forums is how I would speak to someone in person without hiding behind a alias or false name, can all the doubters say the same...
Have fun with what ever you ride when ever you ride, just make sure its used...
Reserve yoke is my bad description for the bar clamps being cut and rewelded on backwards and therefore moving the bars forward more in relationship to the front axle line.
Hope this makes sense, if not then ask others on the forum, they'll explain with a few more f##k and cr%p added in for good measure...
WOW, I posted yesterday and looked this morning and nearly fell off my seat, I think I hit a raw nerve somewhere...
For now the TY175 forks will stay, the magical springs are a good suggestion as I was only trying to gauge opinions and options for the winter rebuild!
As for me, I'm a novice who wants to enjoy the sport with a obsessive ability for messing around and trying to make the bike better for me, I know the bike is better than me but why stop and wait for the ratio to chance in my favour, if the bike can be improved in a way that I feel is appropriate and is legal, they why shouldn't I. After all, whether you do it for fun, compete at club level or in the world champions, you must enjoy what you do and building the bike is as much part of it for me as competing!!
As for the bike, its something that someone else had started and I just finished off. Its a TY175 with a tighter fork angle, reverse top yoke, repositioned rock shocks,lower pegs, modded air box and so on and so on, i like it, unless someone else is paying the bill, then thats all that matters.
I've worked in the motor trade all my working life, i come into contact with road and race cars regularly, a race car built well never stops progressing as far as modifications go and in the classic race car world, its even more so, enjoyment is the key word.
As for JonV8's comments, I'm ready for Binegar on the 11th, and building a BSA Bantam D1 for a friend for the same time, hopefully it'll be ready, it'll be nice to see you there Jon after your past good encouragement.
Anyway, where's my welder, i'm off to graft that turbo to the TY now...
I have a TY175 twinshock with standard forks and am looking at moving up to something a bit better. I know I can go to the TY250 forks but I was wondering if anyone else had gone a step further with modern forks from say a Gas Gas or similar. I've read that 38mm is popular? Any suggestions or experiences? What bike could I take them from
TY250 FORKS
A bit better
Using standard TY175 wheel brakes etc
MODERN FORKS
A lot better
Do I use the whole front end inc wheel etc or just the forks and yokes
If using the TY175 wheel, do i have to have a new spindle made?
I need to retain the basic look and the drum brake of course
Am I right in thinking that to remove the front chain sprocket on a D1 Bantam, I need to remove the left side cover that houses the point and flywheel thing or am I missing something that will allow me to remove it without the cover coming off?
If this is the case, the manual states to lock the flywheel in place you have to lock the engine via the conrod, there must be a better easier way surely??
I am building a BSA Bantam D1 plunger '53 with a friend into a trials project ready for the 2012 Bath Classic Motorcycle Club calender and need a bit of help and advise, can anyone help me with the questions below?
1) it runs 300 x 19 road tyres, does anyone know what size trials tyres would fit and what would work best, the original mudguards have been changed to trials ones but the standard forks are still in place?
2) the standard top yoke is a pressed tin affair, can a cast one from a later model fit, was looking on eBay at this one 110787478534 (its listed as a D1 version) or 260916421183 (later model) but seems to be cast, will it fit, I would like to chop it down to remove the clock mounting section but I thought the standard pressed one may be weakened if I chop it up?
3) if we were to run with no lights etc, does anyone have a wiring diagram to get me started?
4) the standard bike runs 16 47 sprockets, was thinking of dropping the front to 12, will this be enough for trials or do I need to go up on the back too?
any help or advise on these little lot of questions would be a great help, any photos or whatever will be very handy.
I have a TY175 and I need some more info on the front and rear mudguards:
FRONT
The front guard was a after market one which was broken but held in place by the usual chrome up and over twin looped support, the bike came with a good used Yamaha mudguard which attaches to the 4 bolts on the fork legs, should I use the the chrome support and the good used mudguard combined or not bother with the chrome support, im not sure which was fitted from the factory or whether I have some TY250 bits mixed into the bike? It's not the most original of bikes...
REAR
The rear guard was also broken so I have a OK used one to put on, its the genuine Yamaha type, under it was a metal bracket that is very rotten, can I bin the bracket and just use the mudguard or is the bracket essential? Do the cheaper after market rear guards not fit a TY175 very well or is it that they are just a bit short at the leading end?
Am i wrong but is a TY250 twin shock tank made of alloy?
Im only asking as i have a TY175 with a dented steel tank and i need to get another so IF a TY250 is alloy and IF it fits and IF its lighter then this could be a good idea? Am I wrong?
Also, do rock shock rear shocks have a locking ring at the top to stock the adjuster turning in use? mine hasn't?
You could always fit yokes forks and front wheel off a Pinky or even an early Fantic mono etc. I do have a pair of TY twinshock yokes that have been machined out to 35mm to take a pair of OSSA, Bultaco, Montesa legs so you could do that also. The TY forks are not that good as std although some say they can be made to work but it's a lot of effort.
is that 35mm yokes that you are selling or just something i could do myself? im interested in gettting this project moving along
Ty175 Electronic Ignition
in Yamaha
Posted
Hello, i have a TY175 that needs electronic ignition as the points need changing and i thought it best to do it once. Any suggestions or recommendations out there?
thanks